TEU­TONIC FORCE

A. LANGE & SÖHNE:

Singapore Tatler Jewels & Time - - Reviews -

The brand that put Ger­man watch­mak­ing on the map demon­strates once again that it is wor­thy of be­ing called “the pearl in Richemont’s crown”. At A. Lange & Söhne, it’s not sim­ply a nov­elty for the sake of bulk­ing up the brand’s port­fo­lio, as each new re­lease re­veals some­thing bet­ter, im­proved and up­dated. This ded­i­ca­tion to per­fec­tion was ev­i­dent in the launches this year, as ex­ist­ing time­pieces un­der­went an in­tel­li­gent facelift while new re­leases served to ame­lio­rate the over­all user ex­pe­ri­ence.

First up, we have the Dato­graph Per­pet­ual Tour­bil­lon. It com­bines Lange’s cel­e­brated chrono­graph move­ment with a per­pet­ual cal­en­dar mod­ule and a stop-sec­ond tour­bil­lon. An­thony de Haas, di­rec­tor of prod­uct de­vel­op­ment for the brand, tells us it was not sim­ply a mat­ter of tak­ing the 2006 Dato­graph Per­pet­ual and adding a tour­bil­lon to the mix: the watch was four years in the mak­ing, and fea­tures an en­tirely new move­ment.

The per­pet­ual cal­en­dar in­di­ca­tions of day, date and month can all be ad­justed by the crown, in­stead of in­di­vid­ual corec­tors. Sim­ply push the crown, and all three in­di­ca­tions will jump for­ward si­mul­ta­ne­ously. Lange has also engi­neered a se­cu­rity sys­tem that needs to be ac­ti­vated be­fore you ad­just the cal­en­dar, should the crown be pushed by mis­take.

You might now be won­der­ing, as you look at the im­age of the watch, where is the tour­bil­lon? It can only be seen from the case back—a beau­ti­ful per­for­mance re­served at the owner’s dis­cre­tion. The de­ci­sion was purely aes­thetic: Lange de­sign­ers did not want to com­pro­mise on leg­i­bil­ity by adding yet an­other vis­ual to the dial. That said, the face for the Dato­graph Per­pet­ual Tour­bil­lon is well-bal­anced and sym­met­ri­cal. The watch is limited to 100 pieces in plat­inum with a black dial.

We also promised in­tel­li­gent up­dates on ex­ist­ing time­pieces: we have the Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase “Lu­men”. First launched in 2013, it has been in­jected with an air of mys­tery, as a semi- trans­par­ent sap­phire glass is used as the dial, al­low­ing the user a glimpse into the in­ner work­ings of the mech­a­nism. Fun fact: did you know that this is only the third open­worked watch in the 21-year his­tory of the brand? None­the­less, this was as much an aes­thetic as a func­tional de­ci­sion. The lu­mi­nous moon, sit­ting amidst a back­ground of starry skies, adds mys­ti­cal al­lure to the dark back­ground, while the crys­tal glass al­lows UV light to pen­e­trate through and charge the lu­mi­nous com­pound for ut­most bright­ness.

From top: A. Lange & Söhne Dato­graph Per­pet­ual Tour­bil­lon; Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase “Lu­men”

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