MAK­ING WAVES

AUDE­MARS PIGUET

Singapore Tatler Jewels & Time - - Contents -

Dis­cover the nov­el­ties at the an­nual Salon In­ter­na­tional de la Haute Hor­logerie, which of­fers a lit­tle some­thing for ev­ery­one

Women lament­ing the lack of ladies’-only me­chan­i­cal time­pieces will find much to love at Aude­mars Piguet. Over the past three years, the Swiss watch­maker has been fo­cus­ing its ef­forts on the fairer gen­der with time­pieces that are fem­i­nine and yet de­fi­antly true to the brand’s re­bel­lious na­ture. Jas­mine Aude­mars, mem­ber of the board of di­rec­tors and de­scen­dant of the found­ing fam­ily, ex­plains that it is no longer true that women are not in­ter­ested in watch move­ments. She says, “Cur­rently, ladies’ watches rep­re­sent around 30 per cent of the watches we sell. We would never be 50-50 be­cause I think we are more his­tor­i­cally a men’s watch brand but around 35 per cent would be good.”

With those fig­ures in mind, the launches this year were well bal­anced be­tween men and women. We saw ex­cit­ing ad­di­tions to the women’s Mil­lenary Open­worked col­lec­tion, which un­der­went a re­vamp in 2014. Fea­tur­ing a back-to-front move­ment, where the bal­ance wheel can be seen dial-side, it beau­ti­fully jux­ta­poses form and func­tion.

Our high­light, though? The Royal Oak Dou­ble Bal­ance Wheel Open­worked. Here, the brand bends the rules of move­ment con­struc­tion by tweak­ing the en­gi­neer­ing of the watch’s reg­u­lat­ing sys­tem: the bal­ance wheel and bal­ance spring. The bal­ance wheel is of­ten af­fected by ex­ter­nal fac­tors, such as the move­ment of the wrist and the tem­per­a­ture, thus neg­a­tively im­pact­ing ac­cu­racy and pre­ci­sion of the time­piece. By adding an ad­di­tional bal­ance wheel to the or­gan, Aude­mars Piguet prom­ises an ad­di­tional 30 per cent of ac­cu­racy—no mean feat. To view the move­ment in all its glory, the brand has skele­tonised the move­ment and presents it within an open­worked dial.

From left: Aude­mars Piguet Royal Oak Dou­ble Bal­ance Wheel Open­worked; Mil­lenary hand­wound

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