TOP OF THE POPS

The Bvl­gari Wild Pop high jew­ellery col­lec­tion has its roots in the deca­dence of the 1980s, but is res­o­lutely mod­ern in its ex­e­cu­tion

Singapore Tatler Jewels & Time - - Contents - Text Kar­ishma Tul­si­das

The 80s see a high jew­ellery re­vival with Bvl­gari

While the 1980s are of­ten ref­er­enced in fash­ion and art, the world of high jew­ellery has been slower on the up­take. Af­ter all, images of wild neon lights, au­da­cious colours and bold state­ments are at odds to the typ­i­cally ro­man­tic and po­etic na­ture of high jew­ellery. Trust Ro­man jew­eller Bvl­gari to take up that chal­lenge, and or­ches­trate a 1980s come­back that harks to its her­itage but still presents a nat­u­ral evo­lu­tion of its cur­rent aes­thetic.

The start­ing point for the Wild Pop col­lec­tion is Ni­cola Bul­gari’s—heir of the founder of the house, Sotirio Bul­gari— friend­ship with 1980s icon and king of pop, Andy Warhol. The artist fa­mously had an affin­ity for beau­ti­ful ob­jets d’art, and would of­ten ref­er­ence and wear Bvl­gari’s jewels and time­pieces. His friend­ship with Ni­cola was so­lid­i­fied when the Ital­ian moved to New York, ush­er­ing an era of deca­dent, over-thetop de­signs at the Ro­man brand. While Wild Pop is a riot of colours that re­calls to that era of deca­dence, it is im­bued with the jew­eller’s spirit, from the use of vi­brant coloured gem­stones and cabo­chon cuts to geo­met­ric and cir­cu­lar mo­tifs and kitschy em­blems.

Bvl­gari cre­ative di­rec­tor Lu­cia Sil­vestri be­gan the Wild Pop jour­ney with one sim­ple phrase: “You have to dare” and this au­da­cious ethos has been in­jected into every piece. Most de­mon­stra­tive of this risqué spirit is the Happy Leaves neck­lace, which fea­tures a cel­e­bra­tion of di­a­monds and emer­alds em­u­lat­ing the shape of the plant.

In fact, a kalei­do­scope of gem­stones has been har­nessed to por­tray the bon vi­vant and eclec­tic sprit of the era, one marked by fame, mu­sic, and wild fash­ion. Dar­ing mag­pies will love the kitschy Pop Mics suite, en­dowed with amethysts, peri­dots, rubel­lites and aqua­marines, as well as di­a­monds and onyx cladding the body of the mic.

The mak­ing of the Pop Mics (left); the Happy Leaves neck­lace

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