SKIN SECRETS
Next, we move downstairs to what I call the “inner chambers” of the Berluti manufacture: the leather store. Of all the components that make a pair of Berlutis, leather is perhaps the most important. Not only does it cover the largest surface area of the foot, it is also the canvas on which the renowned Berluti patina is applied and is largely responsible for the wearer’s comfort. Inside this temperature-controlled room, aisles of floor-to-ceiling shelves are filled with rolled-up skins of all colours, sizes and types. We meet Zied, who takes care of these precious skins. Over a large table, he throws open a sheet of Venezia skin—a raw leather patented for use by Berluti because it has the best quality for developing the brand’s renowned patina. “We buy only the skins of medium-sized calves,” shares Dall’aglio. “In fact, only the top 10 per cent of skins from the best suppliers can be used to make Berluti Venezia leathers.” Do you buy only skins from a specific breed of cows, I ask. “The skins are from suppliers of cows in Switzerland and Bologna,” Dall’aglio replies and shrugs. “The skins market is dependent on the meat market. At this moment, the meat market is slightly down, perhaps because many people have become vegetarian, so our supplies are also limited.” Zied brings out some templates of shoe leathers and places them on the skins. As the skins expert, he is in charge of supplying the right piece of leather for belts, bags, and shoe parts. “We can only cut four pairs of shoes from one medium calfskin,” he explains in French through a translator. Gesturing towards the neck part of the raw hide, he says: “We don’t use this part here because it has wrinkles.” Next, he lays out a piece of white baby crocodile skin. “On this piece of leather, we can only cut two belts,” he says, placing the templates onto the skin. Mesmerised, we all nod in hypnotic agreement as I entertain a fleeting thought about the resulting price