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Five bright sparks from our 2017 Gen­er­a­tion T list tell us how they are work­ing to trans­form the way we live

Harry Win­ston hon­ours its epony­mous founder with the Le­gacy high jew­ellery col­lec­tion, which high­lights an ar­ray of im­por­tant, in­ter­nally flaw­less di­a­monds. Kar­ishma Tul­si­das bears wit­ness to its mag­i­cal un­veil­ing in Taipei

or all his fame, Harry Win­ston was a man of mys­tery. De­spite hav­ing never been pho­tographed for in­sur­ance and se­cu­rity rea­sons, he gained such in­ter­na­tional ac­claim that the Duchess of Wind­sor re­quested an au­di­ence with him in 1948, stat­ing that she had heard he had “won­der­ful things”, re­fer­ring to the ex­quis­ite di­a­monds, sap­phires and emer­alds he col­lected. Through his hands had passed some of the world’s most beau­ti­ful stones, in­clud­ing the myth­i­cal Hope blue di­a­mond that he would later do­nate to the Smith­so­nian In­sti­tu­tion in Wash­ing­ton, the 94.80-carat Star of the East, the 41-carat Dres­den green di­a­mond, the 726-carat Jonker, the 69.42-carat Tay­lor-bur­ton di­a­mond, among oth­ers. To­day, this fas­ci­na­tion for di­a­monds con­tin­ues un­abated at the House of Harry Win­ston as it fol­lows in its founder’s foot­steps by pur­chas­ing spec­tac­u­lar stones un­der its new own­ers, the Swatch Group. In 2013, it ac­quired the Win­ston Le­gacy, a 101.73-carat pear-shaped, D colour, flaw­less di­a­mond for US$26.7M, and a year later, Win­ston Blue, a 13.22-carat vivid blue, flaw­less di­a­mond for US$23.8M. On the oc­ca­sion of the pur­chase of the Le­gacy, Harry Win­ston CEO Nayla Hayek said, “The ac­qui­si­tion of the Win­ston Le­gacy un­der­scores the brand’s com­mit­ment to per­fec­tion and qual­ity at the high­est level. A stone of this cal­i­bre and rar­ity is the per­fect con­tin­u­a­tion of Mr Win­ston’s le­gacy as the King of Di­a­monds.” Un­der­lin­ing this clear direction is the brand’s lat­est high jew­ellery col­lec­tion, Le­gacy, which is in­spired by the pear-shaped di­a­mond of the same name. Within this 22-piece col­lec­tion is an ar­ray of im­por­tant di­a­monds that are each in­ter­nally flaw­less and D colour. Sixty per cent of the stones in the col­lec­tion are of Type IIA qual­ity—only 1 to 2 per cent of the world’s out­put of nat­u­ral di­a­monds fall in this cat­e­gory, and are char­ac­terised by a lack of ni­tro­gen im­pu­ri­ties, mean­ing that the stones shine with limpid bril­liance. The team of gem­mol­o­gists at Harry Win­ston took three years to source for the stones—their task was to find pear- and mar­quise-shaped di­a­monds that ful­filled the cri­te­ria of qual­ity and weigh­tage. Once the di­a­monds were sourced, the de­sign team pro­duced sketches that would high­light each stone as the cen­tre­piece. The ethos of us­ing de­sign to ser­vice the stone is di­rectly de­rived from founder

Harry Win­ston him­self, who would fa­mously say, “Buy the stone, never the mounts.” Still, it was only once we were able to tear our eyes away from the facetted scin­til­la­tion of the cen­tre di­a­mond that we truly dis­cov­ered the over­all con­cept of each piece, fur­ther ap­pre­ci­at­ing the virtuosity of the de­sign team and the hand­craft­ing skills of the ar­ti­sans. Two of the neck­laces, Unique and Extraordinary, were de­signed by Mau­rice Galli, the last de­signer to have worked di­rectly with Mr Win­ston him­self, as well as late head de­signer Am­baji Shinde. The lat­ter cre­ated the set­tings for the extraordinary stones the com­pany ac­quired, and is of­ten cred­ited for hav­ing de­fined the Win­ston aes­thetic. Galli passed away in 2016, but th­ese two pieces are his trib­ute to the en­dur­ing de­sign codes of the house. They fea­ture a med­ley of mar­quise- and pear-shaped di­a­monds Mr Win­ston favoured for their abil­ity to ap­pear fluid and flex­i­ble, and are set in such a man­ner that the metal can barely be seen. The di­a­monds ap­pear to be linked as if by a mag­i­cal sleight of hand—an ac­co­lade to the crafts­man­ship of the jew­ellery set­ters at Harry Win­ston. At the cen­tre of the Unique neck­lace is a 22.26-carat pear-shaped sparkler, which dan­gles from a chain of di­a­monds. Take a closer look, and you’ll no­tice that vary­ing sizes of mar­quise-cut di­a­monds lead into pear­shaped di­a­monds, fi­nally clos­ing the cir­cle with round bril­liants that are punc­tu­ated by smaller round-shaped stones. Extraordinary is the neck­lace that gets the most at­ten­tion and cam­era clicks in the brand’s Taipei 101 bou­tique, where the col­lec­tion was un­veiled in June—here, a 16.16-carat pear-shaped di­a­mond is high­lighted by a strand of pear­shaped di­a­monds that re­sem­ble a scal­loped edge. It’s a ro­man­tic and an un­usual take on the typ­i­cal eter­nity di­a­mond neck­lace. So metic­u­lous is the crafts­man­ship that you would be hard-pressed to spot the plat­inum be­tween the stones. By cel­e­brat­ing the spirit of its founder with the Le­gacy col­lec­tion, Harry Win­ston makes a daz­zling re­turn to its roots with a dis­tinct fo­cus on the stars them­selves: the di­a­monds.

The di­a­monds ap­pear to be linked as if by a mag­i­cal sleight of hand—an ac­co­lade to the crafts­man­ship of the jew­ellery set­ters

SPARK A REV­O­LU­TION The pear shape of the Win­ston Le­gacy di­a­mond (above) is the in­spi­ra­tion for the Harry Win­ston Le­gacy col­lec­tion

CRE­ATIVE HOMAGE The Extraordinary (right) and Unique neck­laces, de­signed by the late Mau­rice Galli, fea­ture de­sign codes from the Harry Win­ston ar­chives

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