Hero Status
Since the revival of the Girard-perregaux Laureato collection in 2016, the brand has gone all out in adding new references and materials. Nicolette Wong takes a look at this year’s new releases
GIRARD-PERREGAUX IS A brand known for its technical innovations—its tourbillon with three bridges, for instance, is an iconic piece that was invented by founder Constant Girard in the latter half of the 19th century. Its Gyromatic HF movement from the 1960s was the first mechanical movement with a high frequency of 5Hz, and the brand’s Constant Escapement from 2013 was a technical marvel which, as the name suggests, delivers a continuous source of energy from the barrel to the mainspring. In recent years, however, those impressive innovations had become a sort of a trap for the brand, whose focus on luxury timepieces with technical chops meant that it lacked accessible daily-wear pieces that would attract watch-collecting connoisseurs and neophytes alike. In an interview with Singapore Tatler, CEO Antonio Calce stated that “in the past, we had good ideas and creativity, but no real structure. There was no analysis in terms of pricing between the brand and its main competitors”. It was a problem that he needed to solve when he was appointed CEO in 2015. Impressively, Calce’s solution to the problem was introduced just the year after—in the form of a luxury sports watch called the Laureato. The Laureato is a revival of the brand’s similarlynamed watch, originally launched in 1975, when brands were experimenting with different shapes and materials. Girard-perregaux had turned to an Italian architect, who was inspired by the top-down view of the Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore, which is also known as the Florence Cathedral, or Filippo Brunelleschi’s dome. It was launched during the height of the quartz crisis when brands were figuring out their strategies vis-a-vis the new technology, and so the Laureato exclusively housed quartz movements for a full two decades until a self-winding version was introduced in 1995, when mechanical movements were making a comeback. Unfortunately, the 1990s were also a time when consumers were moving towards more aggressive aesthetics, meaning that watches like Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak and Patek Philippe’s Nautilus thrived while the Laureato’s subtler aesthetics languished. But it was just a matter of time before connoisseurs cottoned on to its appeal. And that time is now. Consumers’ tastes have evolved, and more will now be able to appreciate the subtleties and restraint of its design, which was refreshed by yet another Italian—stefano Macaluso, who oversees product development at Girard-perregaux and is the son of Luigi “Gino” Macaluso, the former president and chairman of Sowind Group, which distributes Girard-perregaux. The octagonal stepping within a round bezel is perhaps the Laureato’s most distinctive feature, and pairs with the clous de Paris hobnail-patterned dial for a quietly dignified aesthetic. Its integrated case and lugs emphasise the sleek lines of the watch, and the H-shaped links on the bracelet ensure a comfortable wear. Since the launch of the Laureato in 2016 as a 225-piece limited edition,
Girard-perregaux has rapidly populated the entire collection with dozens of references in different sizes and materials. Last year, the brand introduced the Laureato in 42mm, 38mm and 34mm, as well as the Laureato Tourbillon, Skeleton, and Flying Tourbillon Skeleton, which we have written about previously.
MATERIAL GAIN
This year, Girard-perregaux has introduced even more new models, including the Laureato Skeleton Ceramic in 42mm, and the Ceramic and the Chronograph, both available in 42mm and 38mm. Combined, these models mean that the Laureato collection runs the gamut in terms of price and complications, with something to appeal to nearly every type of collector. The Laureato Chronograph, for one, looks sportier than the original, thanks to the chronograph pushers and the guards on both the pushers and the crown that protect the more delicate parts of the watch. The change in aesthetic is reinforced by the addition of three recessed subdials at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock, which are particularly prominent on the black-and-white panda dials. Plus, the watch is available in both pink gold and 904L steel, which has a higher chromium content and is much harder and more resistant to rust and corrosion than other steels. As a consequence, however, this material is much harder to machine, which makes Girard-perregaux’s decision to use it all the more laudable. The Laureato Chronograph in both 38mm and 42mm house the same self-winding movement, although only the 42mm has a transparent sapphire glass caseback. This focus on unusual materials seems to be the theme for the Laureato collection this year—the brand has also launched the watch in both black and white ceramic. Thanks to its lightness and durability, the material lends itself well to the sporty-luxe vibe of the Laureato. When asked why he wanted to create the ceramic version of the Laureato, Calce said that there was a demand for a more scratch-resistant version of the Laureato (in black, specifically, although the white version was later added)—ceramic, therefore, made for a sensible choice. More interestingly, however, is the fact that Girard-perregaux has extended this material over to its haute horlogerie models, creating
the Laureato Skeleton Ceramic, which is a variation of the previously launched Laureato Skeleton. The skeletonisation of the movement is beautifully and impeccably done, with precise satin brushing and chamfering on the bridges adding to the interplay of light and shadow on the watch. The movement has been given a black PVD treatment to match the case and bracelet. The rotor at the back of the self-winding watch has also been skeletonised, and is hewn in pink gold, providing vivid contrast to the dark timepiece. After three years of very quick work, the Laureato collection is now considered complete, although we wouldn’t put it past Girard-perregaux to add even more pieces to the mix later on. After all, the collection went from one model to 80 references (all told in different materials and colours, including the original 225-piece limited edition) in three short years. While it remains to be seen whether the Laureato will become a true icon for the house, Calce has indicated that the collection has been very well-received, and it is certainly true that the Laureato has revived the conversation surrounding Girard-perregaux and extended its reach beyond its usual haute horlogerie customers.