Shisen Hanten by Chen Kentaro

AJapanese approach and sensibility ensure that the Sichuan food served in this sprawling, lofty restaurant is always elegant and refined. While there is a boldness of flavours distinctive of Sichuan cuisine, there’s also a restrained balance that speaks volumes of the kitchen’s well-honed finesse. The classic mapo tofu is the perfect case in point—the stir-fried soft tofu is imbued with just the right amount of Sichuan spice so that it never overwhelms the flavourful stock that underpins the dish. It’s a similar case with the wok-fried fish, blanketed with shishito peppers. While there is some tongue-numbing action from the rich spiciness, they don’t dim the fresh flavours and toothsome texture of the deftly cooked fish. Despite the large dining room, the service here is attentive and knowledgeable. Service staff are well-versed in the restaurant’s offerings and make excellent recommendations.

TATLER TIP

Weekend brunch is a good time to try an array of the restaurant’s signature dishes, such as the classic mapo tofu and the Peking duck, for a flat fee.

SIGNATURE DISHES

1. Chen’s mapo tofu

2. Sautéed chicken and chilli peppers 3. Wok-fried fish with shishito peppers

4. Foie gras chawanmushi with crab roe soup