Tatler Dining Singapore

THEVAR

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9 Keong Saik Road, S(089117) TEL: 6904 0838

Inspired by the food of his childhood, chef Mano Thevar serves modern Indian dishes at this narrow onyx-hued dining room. Guests sit at the counter by the kitchen or on tall chairs around tables that seat no more than four. The menu is sectioned into large and small plates, with the latter being the highlight. Among the standouts are the Chettinad chicken roti, comprising a deliciousl­y nuanced chicken curry tucked into a naan pocket, and the mackerel dosai with tomato chutney, which is an inspired creation that brings together familiar Indian flavours in the most unfamiliar yet delectable ways. No doubt, serving the familiar in new ways is exactly what defines the modern Indian fare here. Pork, not a typical protein found on Indian menus, is parsed into creations such as the crispy pork with sambal aioli, wrapped in a succulent betel leaf. Dessert takes its cue from Thevar’s sister restaurant­s Meta and Kimme, with options such as a cempedak puff, a sable-topped choux filled with a fragrant cempedak cream. Sweets like these make a great ending to an enjoyable meal.

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