Traversing the Rainbow Nation
Free-roaming wildlife, marine creatures carving through the waves, beguiling natural wonders and award-winning vineyards and gourmet restaurants— Iroshini Chua discovers South Africa, which has it all
haaaaaark!”, screamed a voice through the loudhailer. My vision swiftly focused on a frenzied seal that broke the surface of the water and soared into the air, the jaws of a great white shark sickeningly close to its tail. This was an arresting sight barely 2m from our boat. In a heartbeat, the seal dove underneath its predator and appeared at its tail—and blind spot—and shadowed its every move. The life-and-death situation had taken a comical twist as the seemingly hapless seal outsmarted the feared carnivore. Such was the splendour of the waters off the Western Cape province of South Africa, where the ocean teems with the Marine Big Five (dolphins, penguins, seals, whales and great white sharks). The town of Hermanus, in particular, is regarded as one of the 12 best whale-watching destinations in the world, where between the months of September and November, a whale sighting is almost guaranteed. Prior to our shark encounter, my husband Kevin and I had been on a boat close to a pod of southern right whales as they glided through the azure sea. Earlier that morning, I had spotted the same species from the Birkenhead House, the first of the six Mr & Mrs Smith hotels we stayed at during our South African sojourn. Strategically located on a cliff, the Birkenhead House is a luxurious beach house where guests can catch glimpses of whales while soaking up the sun in an infinity pool, enjoy freshly-caught mussels at a laidback whitewashed restaurant or catch up on their reading at the glass-clad living room. Our abode boasted two balconies overlooking the ocean and mountains. One of 11 suites, it featured a mix of antique furniture, including a four-poster bed, cushioned footstools and a chaise lounge in its spacious bathroom. On another day, we drive two hours to Franschhoek, a picturesque village with vineyards set in a valley. Originally helmed by Huguenot refugees, the town exuded a French