Peerless Timekeeping
When it comes to classic innovation, Patek Philippe leads the way, as evident in its expanding repertoire of annual calendar watches. Lily Ong examines the brand’s innovations for this mechanism
atchmaking has always been about inventing new ways to tell time; providing information creatively and conveniently. It is this drive for improvement and innovation that many often admire about Patek Philippe. The brand—known for its esteemed heritage—is a pioneer in crafting complications that have been ahead of its time. Take its calendar display. The Patek Philippe collection is filled with references paying tribute to the complex expressions of calendar indications. Examples of such timepieces include its single calendar models—found in most brands in the market as well—that feature a pointer-type or aperture-type date display, or double calendar watches that showcase the day of the week in addition to the date. Then came along the triple or complete calendar timepieces that indicate the month, with some also featuring moonphases. These calendar mechanisms require adjustments to be done at the end of 30-day months and the month of February. That is, until the annual calendar came into Patek Philippe’s repertoire in 1996, which only required adjustments to be made for accuracy once a year, on March 1st. Fun fact: the perpetual calendar, which does not need adjusting even in leap years, was developed before the annual calendar by Patek Philippe in 1925. Patek Philippe prioritised user-friendliness first and foremost, so engineers used a mechanical solution based solely on wheels, unlike traditional perpetual calendars using levers and springs. To reiterate, the Ref 5035 uses an entirely rotating mechanism and a train of wheels and pinions. As a result, this annual calendar mechanism has a total of 316 components, all so that it can function effectively and smoothly. Patented for Patek Philippe’s exclusive use, a 24-hour-wheel is equipped with two finger pieces. At the end of a 30-day cycle, the second finger piece automatically