Bringing Basic Back

Haider Ackermann’s first collection for Berluti is elegant in form, luxurious in material and desirable in every way. But don’t mistake it as art. He tells Jane Ngiam right after stepping off the runway that true luxury ‘has to be comfort’

here was more than the usual air of excitement and tension as guests streamed into the Grand Palais in Paris. From serious-faced, conservatively dressed journalists crammed into the front-row seats to the gaggle of flamboyantly coloured, bejewelled celebrities piled into the centre of the runway, everyone was gathered to witness Haider Ackermann’s first collection for Berluti. His debut collection, after he was named the brand’s new creative director last September following the departure of Alessandro Sartori, was hotly anticipated not only because of the short time frame he had to put it together, but because his appointment was in itself lauded by fashion observers as a shrewd move by Antoine Arnault, chief executive of Berluti and scion of LVMH, which owns the brand. Just days before, Ackermann had presented his own autumn/winter 2017 collection to an approving audience at Paris Men’s Fashion Week. The stress of producing two shows nearly back-to-back notwithstanding, the designer, known for his textured application and expert use of materials, managed to deliver on both fronts with aplomb. The comfortable chemistry between Arnault and Ackermann was obvious; at the post-show dinner, Arnault told guests in his speech, “I’m proud of everything we have accomplished over the last five years with Berluti. I’m even prouder that we took the decision six, seven months ago and decided to work with Haider. You were always extremely straight to the point and precise, and what we saw on the runway tonight was exactly what I had envisioned…” at which point Ackermann interjected to laughter all round, “You mean I didn’t surprise you at all?” Right after the high of stepping off the runway, Singapore Tatler grabbed 10min with the self-declared “exhausted, elated and breathless” designer for a glimpse into his vision for the brand.