Patek Philippe celebrates the Aquanaut collection’s two decades of excellence with elegant tweaks and enhancements to its modern sporty design
Patek Philippe celebrates the Aquanaut collection’s two decades of excellence with elegant tweaks and enhancements to its modern sporty design, writes Lily Ong
ith 178 years of history to its name, Patek Philippe certainly has a lot of stories to tell about its brand legacy. Its extensive past also means that the brand has plenty of milestones to celebrate, with many significant events that have catalysed its growth. For instance, last year, the Nautilus collection celebrated its 40th anniversary, while this year, the manufacture has another important milestone to commemorate, 20 years of Aquanaut line. In true Patek Philippe fashion, this anniversary is best celebrated through what the manufacture does best—covetable watches engineered with precision and quality. The Aquanaut collection first debuted at the 1997 Baselworld with a sporty and contemporary demeanour, hewn in stainless steel, and designed to appeal to a younger generation. A descendant of the Nautilus, the Aquanaut was simpler in its construction, with a threepart case with a rounded octagonal bezel and satin-finished flats. The Aquanaut case paid a well-deserved tribute to the Nautilus with that unmistakable touch of elegance and luxury that Patek Philippe is renowned for.
THE FINER DETAILS
Enter the new Ref 5168G. This anniversary model is Patek Philippe’s first men’s Aquanaut wristwatch in white gold (there have been others in rose gold). The size has increased from 40mm to 42mm, making it the largest model in this line, and pays tribute to the original 1976 Nautilus of the same size that was nicknamed “Jumbo”—a name that collectors still use today. What instantly attracts us is the night blue hue of the dial and the composite strap. It’s not one-tone however, as the dial features a gradient effect, with a lighter, almost iridescent blue centre, darkening as it nears the edges. Its finely embossed chequerboard pattern helps the applied Arabic numerals in white gold stand out. And thanks to the Superluminova coating, it is easy to read the time in the dark. Further upping the luxe ante, the luminous five-minute markers are set by hand appliques in white gold. Hovering above the dial, the sharp-tipped luminous baton hands for the hours and minutes are paired with a slender, counterbalanced and white-laquered parfil seconds hand in bronze. An engraved Calatrava cross also graces the white-gold fold-over clasp, which secures the blue composite strap embossed with the typical Aquanaut pattern. It is comfortable on the wrist, tear-and-abrasion-resistant, as well as insensitive to salt water and UV radiation.
HEART OF THE MATTER
As beautiful as its aesthetics are, the true beauty of this watch lies in the heart of its calibre. The Ref 5168G houses the self-winding calibre 324 S C that unites the hallmarks that appeal to men with a penchant for classic mechanical horology: traditional finishing with innovative high-end technology. At 3.3m in height, the movement is so flat that even with its elaborate seals and gaskets, the watch is still only 8.25m thick overall. With its central rotor in gold, it extracts and stores energy from every movement of the wrist. The movement has a rate accuracy of -3 to +2 seconds per day as specified by the directives of the Patek Philippe Seal. The finissage of the movement, visible through the sapphire crystal caseback, is a sight to behold, thanks to the usage of polishing techniques like cotes de Genève and perlage. Round-chamfered and polished edges emphasise the contours of the individual bridges. The rotor is also endowed with a large engraved Calatrava cross, a Patek Philippe trademark. It is the perfect flourish for a timepiece that honours two decades of innovation while remaining true to the Swiss watchmaker’s storied legacy.