Uniquely Singaporean
As defining exponents of contemporary Singaporean fare, Willin Low and Han Li Guang muse about its future with Don Mendoza
he conversation about the evolution of Singapore cuisine—from its heritage foods to uniquely innovative interpretations—has, over the past decade or so, earned itself a brighter spotlight. And while we might credit much of it to top local chefs’ renewed interest in preserving familiar flavours, Wild Rocket’s Willin Low points out that an innovative spirit remains crucial to ensuring its future both at home and abroad. “We are a small country; our cuisine will always be the cuisine of a small country in a global market,” explains the pioneering chef, who is perhaps most famously known to have been the first to coin the term mod-sin (modern Singaporean) cuisine to describe his novel take on staple local dishes 12 years ago. “Nonetheless, Singapore has always punched above its weight, so maybe we can repeat the magic with our food,” he adds. “But before we can do that, we need to ensure that mod-sin cuisine takes root in our homeland first.” Following Candlenut’s groundbreaking achievement last year, when it became the first Peranakan restaurant to earn a Michelin star, mod-sin restaurant Labyrinth further drummed up interest in Singapore’s uniquely diverse dining scene when it became the first such restaurant to earn a Michelin star in the 2017 edition of the Michelin Guide Singapore. “People know Singapore as a financial hub, a modern city, but people don’t know of Singapore cuisine as much as they do of Thai, Japanese or Vietnamese cuisine. So, to be able to represent mod-sin is somewhat a dream come true,” says Labyrinth’s chef-owner Han Li Guang. He believes this might inspire