Across the Andes

Peru boasts one of the highest and most spectacular rail routes in the world. And the best way to experience it? On board South America’s first sleeper train, writes Emilie Yabut-razon

he asphalt disappears behind a cloud of dust as our minivan leaves the Chivay highway to turn onto a dirt road. From a distance, we see a white, one-storey building and hear the faint strains of a saxophone, so unexpected in the middle of this vast tundra that makes up this region of Arequipa, in southwest Peru. My travelling companions (a select group of journalists from all over the world) and I are here to experience the maiden voyage of the Belmond Andean Explorer, the first sleeper train to run along the Andes mountain ranges. The itinerary explores less tourist-worn trails on a rail route that reaches heights of up to 5,100m, between the country’s ancient capital of Cusco, the snow-capped peaks of La Raya, and Lake Titicaca, one of the largest elevated lakes in the world. Our attention is captured momentarily by a flock of lithe, wild vicunas grazing nearby—they are prized and protected for their wool, which is softer and finer than cashmere. And then it is back to the soulful saxophone playing as the sleek, elegant lines of our mobile home for the next three days come into view. It is difficult to see where the train starts and ends, as each of its 16 cars is at least 20m long, brightly painted in white and blue and decorated at every end with a chakana cross, a holy Incan symbol of life. Smart-looking uniformed staff lead us into the small building, where we are met by a welcoming committee of waiters offering champagne, wine, and for the non-drinkers, cups of coca tea, a popular herbal infusion made from the coca leaf believed to help cure altitude sickness and stave off hunger. Stepping onto the Belmond Andean Explorer is like going back in time. With its mahogany panelling, intricate marquetry on the floors and art nouveau-inspired ceilings, it is hard to believe the carriages were only built in Queensland in the 1990s. The front section of the train houses all the cabins, which are all painted white and tastefully decorated in light cream tones save for the bright blues and reds of the Peruvian fabrics that adorn the pillowcases and bedspreads. All the carriages are named after local flora and fauna, and each cabin has an ensuite bathroom with a shower, water closet and vanity—a true luxury for sleeper trains. The largest rooms feature a plush double bed, a cosy seating area with two cushioned chairs, a small table (for journalling, perhaps?) and massive windows to ensure maximum appreciation of the rolling hills, glistening lakes and herds of alpacas and llamas that all play their part in making this trip memorable. A slight lurch of the engine, and we are off. The train, which can carry up to 48 passengers, has been built for entertaining, with a lounge car complete with a grand piano and live music in the evenings, a fully stocked and always-manned bar for that never-ending supply of pisco sours—or its local iteration, the sancayo sour, made from the fruit of a