The Edge Singapore

Savouring East and West

A review of California Republic’s So-Cal menu and modern Asian delights at Path

- BY JASMINE ALIMIN jasmine.alimin@bizedge.com

If you have grown tired of starchy linens and fancy cutlery, and prefer dining destinatio­ns that are more casual, communal and convivial, we have uncovered two new restaurant­s great for big group outings with real good food to boot. While one warms our hearts and bellies with familiar flavours and aromas

California Republic

88 Amoy Street I Tel: 9784 9487

of Asian cooking, the other introduces us to Southern California­n cooking with an Italian twist.

Here, we take a closer look at The Dandy Collection’s coolest dining concept California Republic, and Path, a modern Asian restaurant by 1855 F&B (the people behind 1855 The Bottle Shop).

Brought to you by the creators of Firangi Superstar, Fat Prince and Neon Pigeon, California Republic sends us back in time to the groovy Sixties, embodying the cool coastal spirit of the Golden State matched by wholesome unpretenti­ous So-Cal cuisine.

The newly-opened restaurant, brought to life by EDG Design and creative co-founder Michael Goodman, rocks a mid-century modern living room vibe. Think That 70s Show complete with warm wood fixtures, sunken leather seats, overhangin­g lamps, Aztec upholstery, vintage movie posters and other retro-cool parapherna­lia.

The 65-seater space offers a mix of private booths, small tables and large dining arrangemen­ts anchored by roomy chairs or intimate banquette seats. To complete the nostalgia, a fresh scent of pine and dewdrops linger in the air, while a groovy playlist of everything from rock to R&B hits finds diners subconscio­usly bopping along.

The communal sharing dishes curated by LA-based David Almany (of Osteria Mozza

and Angeleno) blend Italian cooking ala New York — where Goodman and operations director Mike Pekarsky grew up — with fresh and bright multi-dimensiona­l flavours of So-Cal cuisine featuring the freshest picks of produce from coast and farm.

If you like spicy Mexican flavours, which is very So-Cal, do try the Charred Broccolini ($14) seasoned with SoCal chilli oil; Tijuana Original Caesar ($21) with Grana Padano, anchovies and garlic croutons; Chicken Fra Diavolo ($34) made with “Devil’s” Marinade and Guajillo Chilli; and the Grilled Oysters ($22) grilled with Chipotle chilli, bourbon and garlic compound butter.

A customer favourite is chef Almany’s famed Meatballs al Angeleno ($28), a moreish dish of cheesy, soft giant meatballs made with pork, veal and Parmigiano served in a delicious tomato base. For lunch, this gets served up sub-style as part of a $38 set which includes a salad, soup and dessert.

Definitely worth returning for are the handmade pastas like the Smoked Bucatini ($34), a penne-like pasta tossed with a revised pork ragu in Bianco with classic Soffritto and a touch of bone marrow; and the Celery Root Cappellacc­i ($29), a tortellini-type pasta stuffed with celery root puree and cooked in a sauce of roasted mushrooms.

If you’re a fan of seafood bouillabai­sse, California Republic offers a sharing portion of Lazy Man’s Cioppino ($48), a classic San Francisco tomato-based seafood stew filled with mussels, clams, calamari and roasted sea bass. Make sure you mop up the leftover sauce with some West Coast Garlic Mops ($18) — inspired by California’s Garlic Knots — which are freshly-made pull-apart bread bathed in a mixture of garlic, oregano, extra virgin olive oil and Grana Padano.

The So-Cal experience transcends beyond just food. The creative cocktails are equally original — labelled according to their alcohol strengths zero proof, half proof and full proof — with fresh names like Shredding the Gnarley, a mocktail mix with elderflowe­r, mint, granny smith and cucumber; Know Your Way To San Jose with Veritas rum, green acid, vermouth and Basito; El Segundo, a zero proof tipple with Lyre’s Aperitif and strawberry-basil lemonade; and Flower Child made with Campari and Aperol.

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OWEN RAGGET; CALIFORNIA REPUBLIC

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