THE DOCTOR IS IN

Although sun protection seems like a familiar topic that has been discussed for ages, there are still many myths and misconceptions that surround it. With an increasing number of sun protection products available on the market now across the mass, derma-ceutical and luxury segments, it sometimes even seems rather confusing when it comes to choosing the right product. Options seeks out Dr Georgia Lee, medical director and founder of TLC Lifestyle Practice, known for her dedication and interest in skincare and well-being, for professional advice on sun protection.

Is there such a thing as “safe tanning”?

There is no such thing as “safe tanning “and this is supported by The Skin Cancer Foundation. Once the skin is exposed to UV irradiation, the risk of melanoma and non-melanoma skin cancer increases between 29%– 67% even from a single exposure. It does so through two key factors; namely by damaging both the DNA of the skin cells which can evolve to become cancerous and also by weakening the skin’s immune defence.

What are some of the latest advancements in sun protection products?

Sun protection research has made significant strides over the years. Zinc oxide’s description in 500 BC marked early progress. The first commercial chemical sunscreen emerged in 1922. By the 1990s, concerns about UVA radiation led to UVA filters in sunscreens and regulatory measures. In 2006, the European Commission set UVA protection criteria, followed by the FDA’s standards in 2019. Antioxidants were added to sunscreen formulations in the 2000s to counteract the harmful effects of near-infrared radiation. TriAsorB (2021) is among the latest sunscreen filters, boasting unique properties like low skin penetration and protection against blue light and oxidation. Skin penetration, emphasised by the FDA’s 2020 announcement, has prompted the development of nanotechnology with encapsulation to enhance SPF efficacy while reducing penetration. Classical titanium dioxide and zinc oxide remain vital for UV and visible light protection, with micronised or nano versions offering improved cosmetic appeal, although micronised titanium dioxide provides lower protection. With climate change, formulations now include skin-cooling effects using hydrogel, with compounds like xylitol capable of reducing skin temperature by up to 6°C in just five minutes.

At what age should one start using sunscreen?

Young children, especially those under one year old, should be shielded from unnecessary sun exposure. If exposure is unavoidable, the best protection against burns and long-term UV effects involves using sun-protective clothing, keeping them shaded, and avoiding outdoor activities during peak UV hours (between 10am and 2pm).

What are some of the biggest misconceptions about sun protection products?

• SPF label

Many people mistakenly believe that SPF corresponds to the duration of solar exposure. For example, they might think that if they typically get sunburned in one hour, using an SPF 15 sunscreen would enable them to stay in the sun for 15 hours without burning. However, this is incorrect because SPF is not directly linked to the time spent in the sun but rather to the amount of solar exposure.

• SPF 100 gives 100% protection

The additional protection provided by SPF 30 and 50 is 97% and 98%, respectively. No SPF offers 100% protection. Higher SPF levels entail more chemicals entering the bloodstream. Additionally, a higher SPF label may create a false sense of security. The key to safety against UV exposure lies in avoidance, coverage, and reapplication.

• Taking oral sun protection pills is sufficient

Oral sun protection supplements enhance the effects of topical sun protection, providing more even protection and often containing ingredients that can reduce UV damage. However, the key remains in the application and reapplication of topical sun protection, coverage through protective wear, and practising sensible sun exposure.

Do “clean” or “cruelty-free” SPF products exist?

Green ingredients sourced from nature are increasingly popular in SPF products. Common examples include pigments derived from bacteria or flavonoids. Mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs), found in fungi and marine organisms, resemble chemical SPF ingredients like octinoxate and avobenzone. Consequently, they are integrated into many photoprotective formulations, with analogues developed to address formulation challenges. Currently, naturally derived ingredients are not approved sunscreen agents but are often included as functional additives in sunscreen products.

Do we need to double-cleanse when using sunscreen?

Absolutely. I always recommend using a makeup remover before regular cleansing. During facials, incorporating a deep-pore cleansing treatment can help reduce product buildup in pores. For body sun protection, I advocate regular exfoliation using an exfoliation pad.