JAPANESE FOOD AND WHISKY: BREAKING WITH TRADITION
Whisky and water is supposed to be an aberration, and dining with it a scandal. Indeed, pairing the golden liquid with food would risk masking its notes – notes like sherbet, dark chocolate and caramel.
But Suntory paved the way for this because, as its global brand ambassador, Mike Miyamoto, says, the Japanese palate is delicate. In 1970, it introduced “Mizuwari”, a blending of whisky with water, and paired it with Japanese cuisine. The combination was a hit, but it has not quite caught on outside Japan. With Yamazaki’s 2013 single malt in the spotlight after winning World Whisky of the Year award last year, Miyamoto has gone on a crusade to break tradition.
He has been selective, though, preferring to pair it with Japanese fine dining. In Singapore, his choice is Shinji by Kanesaka at the Raffles Hotel. His pick for master chef is no less than Koichiro Oshino, who has worked with two Michelin star chef Shinji Kanesaka for 20 years.
The menu was an elaborate seven-course affair, from marinated tofu, steamed abalone and king crab, to caviar, sea urchin, white shrimp, and fatty tuna in egg yolk. Four Suntory whiskies from its Hakushu, Hibiki and Yamazaki labels were paired with the spread, with the Yamazaki Sherry Cask 2016 taking centre stage.
The most versatile of the lot is the Hibiki 17-year-old, which has notes of honey, wax, raisin, cooked fruit, and even custard. Says Miyamoto: “There are so many flavours in the blend. Whether it is spicy or bland, Hibiki can go with any kind of food.”
Suntory’s flagship Yamazaki 12 on the rocks pairs well with grilled food that has a hint of sweetness, but especially with sashimi, as the malt’s fruit flavours are a fine match with the clean freshness of the fish.
Miyamoto has made inroads with Asian whisky fans, but he says it is still a steep climb with Western consumers. “They are biased against whisky going with food. It is very difficult to break barriers. But maybe in Australia, it is different, because they are just catching up on whisky.”