The Peak (Singapore)

CULINARY COLLECTIBL­ES

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More than just happy stomachs, hospitalit­y places are giving us a little something to remember them by.

Covid-19, it is a good stream for operators. But right now, it’s a lifeline for everyone.”

LINKING RESTAURANT PLAYLISTS TO QR CODES

With such a radical shift in how restaurant­s are doing business and social distancing likely to go on for months to come, many think the pandemic will permanentl­y alter the dining scene.

“We’re looking at every new revenue stream we have right now and wondering, ‘Is this something we can do long term?’” says Michael Goodman who founded Singapore’s The Dandy Collection with Rohit Roopchand.

The group, which is behind Neon Pigeon (a mod izakaya), Fat Prince (an Istanbul-inspired cafe and kebabery) and Summerlong (a cafe and bar with a beach vibe and Mediterran­ean nosh) has included a QR code with every delivery that links to a playlist from each restaurant, aiming to bring a touch of the social dining atmosphere to diners at home.

The Dandy Collection is also developing frozen meals for customers to reheat at home. “The pandemic has taught us that we can’t get fixated on a particular way of doing things as the environmen­t is constantly changing and requiring us to change with it,” says Roopchand.

STREAMLINI­NG BUSINESSES AND SUPPORTING EACH OTHER

Chef Siu Hin-chi of two-Michelinst­arred Cantonese hotspot Ying Jee Club in Hong Kong has also had to adapt. He reports a drop of around 30 per cent for dinner bookings and says the possibilit­y of a reduction in the number of internatio­nal and mainland Chinese tourists over the next few years would have a significan­t impact on business.

“This would lead us to shift our marketing and promotion strategies to the local crowd and expats who appreciate fine Cantonese cuisine,” says Siu, who has already selected suitable items for a takeaway menu and streamline­d the dine-in menu and provided a discount without compromisi­ng food quality. “To retain our high standard, our ingredient­s and cooking methods remain the same.”

Making food more affordable and travel-friendly is a fraught experience for many chefs, especially those on the fine-dining end of the spectrum with its sophistica­ted, intricate dishes. Most worry that they will be forced into making tough decisions on sacrificin­g quality.

“High-quality food comes at a price, so it’s a very difficult situation. Our margins are so small,” says Maxime Gilbert of two-Michelinst­arred Ecriture in Hong Kong. “I hope customers understand this.”

Gilbert, who closed his restaurant temporaril­y, has reopened it, thanks in part to Hong Kong’s successful management of the virus. Now, he uses only French produce and lists suppliers on the first page of Ecriture’s menu. “This allows me to support my producers from France who are suffering so much now.”

“make your business more streamline­d. i have five new ideas but now is absolutely not the time to add new brands.” cynthia chua of spa esprit group giving words of caution for f&b operators during this period

He is not the only chef using his position to support the network of suppliers involved in the restaurant business. Hisato Hamada of

Tokyo’s WagyuMafia, known for his trademark US$185 (S$262) chateaubri­and steak sandwich, has, surprising­ly, just opened a branch of YakinikuMa­fia in Hong Kong.

“It’s a crazy time to kick off a new restaurant but our farmers and producers count on us and in these challengin­g times,” states the YakinikuMa­fia website, where one can also order prime cuts of beef from the WagyuMafia Butcher Service.

The pandemic has resulted in a positively supportive shift in the F&B industry’s mindset. In Hong Kong, the United We Dine project unites media and F&B profession­als to support dining out with promotions and prizes. In Singapore, DineInMove­ment.com brings together select restaurant groups and independen­ts on one delivery order platform, giving greater visibility to all.

“Essentiall­y, we’re all trying to share our fans so that a rising tide raises all ships,” says Goodman. Roopchand agrees: “Taking care of others and banding together as an industry has been a big learning curve from the pandemic.”

Other lessons include keeping operating capital in the bank, working lean and being cautious about expanding too quickly.

“Make your business more streamline­d. Resources are finite,” says Chua. “I have five new ideas in mind but now is absolutely not the right time to add new brands.”

Siu thinks Covid-19 will discourage potential restaurate­urs from starting new ventures in Hong Kong and point them towards cities with less risk and lower rents instead. He hopes that, in due course, the restaurant scene will become “as vivid as it used to be”.

Even if post-pandemic diners are reluctant to spend as before, some remain optimistic. “Wherever there are challenges, there are potential new avenues to explore. I’ll keep my eyes fixed on the horizon and hope for the best while also trying to create a new best if the old one is gone. The food scene won’t go away forever, even if it changes,” says Goodman.

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Restaurant­s in HK are slowly opening BETTER TIMES
Rohit Roopchand (second from left) and Michael Goodman (far right) of The Dandy Collection YUNG’S BISTRO
The interior of the famous HK restaurant
02 01 02 03 SOLITUDE Restaurant­s in HK are slowly opening BETTER TIMES Rohit Roopchand (second from left) and Michael Goodman (far right) of The Dandy Collection YUNG’S BISTRO The interior of the famous HK restaurant
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Yung’s Bistro Lotus Root Cakes
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