Beyond the Green
Revered yet misunderstood, second-gen Hong Kong jeweller Michael Lo gives jadeite new sass.
Too delicate, old-fashioned, and ostentatious… Despite this common perception, jadeite is much more fascinating than one would imagine — and Michael Lo is determined to make the gem more accessible and exciting to modern shoppers.
Hailing from a family that sold jadeite for over five decades along historic Canton Road’s “Jade Street” in Hong Kong, Lo rebranded the business as modern jeweller Dejade in 2015. His newly opened Singapore outpost on the ground floor of Mandarin Gallery is now the first step towards his childhood dream of taking this traditional Chinese favourite international.
MORE THAN MEETS THE EYE
Greeting shoppers at the cream-hued boutique is an eye-popping array of jadeite, the highly desirable category of jade in general. Also called Burmese jade, jadeite is a completely different mineral from the less brilliant, less translucent, but similar-looking nephrite. The former is mainly used for jewellery, while the latter is used for ornaments and sculptures.
While masterpieces set with eyewateringly expensive imperial green jadeite take pride of place in the showcases, several other chic collections feature other natural jadeite shades that are not commonly associated with it: lavender, icy white, red, black, and even yellow and brown.
“Every piece of raw jadeite is so unique that we build thematic designs around it,” says Dejade’s co-founder and director as he presents a tray of cut jadeite blocks and individual pieces that highlight the beauty of each colour. Lavender jadeite, for instance, has a joyful and romantic appeal, while icy jadeite flaunts a mesmerising radiance that outshines that of the moonstone. When put under strong light, black jadeite glows a dark green — unlike fully opaque onyx.
Unlike jewels of yore, which used to feature elaborate and sometimes religious carvings or typical green jadeite with diamonds and yellow gold combinations,
Dejade’s designs range from elegant and minimalist to bold and architectural to downright playful. The decision to veer away from the expected meant that Lo had to introduce more polychromatism and cuts that show off jadeite’s versatility.
“We work with 18K white and rose gold or tinted gold in black or even red. Sometimes, we use titanium. As for gemstones, we’ve introduced spinels, pink sapphires, and onyx to complement the jadeite’s colours,” he adds.
There is also a high level of waste in jadeite cutting, such that the remainder of a raw block meant for a bangle is often rendered unusable. That problem inspired Lo a solution: cutting slices into geometric shapes perfect for graphic designs.
In the Capri Collection, jadeite cabochons and diamonds on gold bangles etched with organically flowing lines evoke the exuberance of the Mediterranean Sea. The Katherine.L Collection, launched in collaboration with the eponymous independent designer, transforms coin-shaped lavender jadeite pieces into whimsical creations. Semi-cylindrical and linear-cut stones adorn the statement-making Raw
Collection, while the Classic Collection features timeless creations suitable for all ages. The Art Deco Collection is sheer genius, for green and black jadeite lend themselves wonderfully to the colours and aesthetics of that era.
BASIC KNOW-HOW
Consider the colour, transparency, texture, cut, size, and weight when choosing a piece. Full-coloured red jadeite is incredibly rare, so you’ve hit the jackpot if you find one. “Some call the luminous imperial green colour ‘old-mine green’, which is as esteemed as pigeon’s blood red for rubies,” states Lo.
While other gemstones are judged by their sparkle or fire, jadeite is assessed by how much translucence or “water” it displays. The more, the better. The
“The decision to veer away from the expected meant that Lo had to introduce more polychromatism and cuts that show off jadeite’s versatility.”
best imperial green jadeite is almost transparent. Such top rocks are often carved into beads and cabochons to highlight their quality, explains Lo, adding that a bangle of this variety would cost a fortune due to the amount of waste involved.
Instead of carats, jadeite is measured in millimetres. Beads sized 11mm and above, of a consistent colour throughout, would be pricey.
Crack lines and inclusions lower a jadeite piece’s value. Lower-quality ones could be filled with resin, bleached, and/ or dyed. Fine jadeite that is completely natural and treatment-free is graded A. To ensure you’ve purchased a legitimate one, insist on a certificate. According to Lo, the most trusted authority is the internationally recognised Hong Kong Jade & Stone Laboratory Limited, which serves international clients and whose website has a report authenticitychecking function.
A major misconception deterring today’s jewel lovers from buying jadeite is that it is too fragile — perhaps due to the popular lore that the stone, believed by the Chinese to possess protective powers, would break to avert harm to the wearer. The gem ranks 6.5 to 7 on the Mohs hardness scale, which is the same as quartz’s and higher than nephrite’s.
Heirloom stones can be reset into new designs or reshaped to your heart’s desire. As Lo had done for his customers, broken bangles can be reimagined as a hinged creation. The world of possibilities with jadeite is huge, and with an avenue for circular fashion in the hands of a bespoke jeweller, it has become more attractive than ever.