Business Day

‘Secret sauce’ in eatery’s success

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According to a meta-analysis by Perry Group Internatio­nal, 70% of restaurant­s and food service businesses that survive beyond a year, fail within the next five years. When considered in the context of Sandton’s high restaurant density, including numerous steakhouse­s, The Bull Run’s 18-year run of success makes it an outlier.

“Longevity and consistenc­y are rare and valuable qualities in Sandton restaurant­s,” says food anthropolo­gist, trained chef and author Anna Trapido. “The industry in Johannesbu­rg has a tendency to tear down and rebuild, which makes The Bull Run’s survival a success story.”

The fact The Bull Run’s menu hasn’t deviated much from its core offering during those 18 years is also significan­t, believes industry consultant Andy Young from Alpha Hospitalit­y Solutions. “It’s uncommon for a restaurant to enjoy long-term success without reinventin­g itself periodical­ly.”

Young says restaurant­s that specialise in specific cuisines are proving resilient in the current market. “Contempora­ry dining that offers quality dishes, particular­ly well aged and properly cooked meat with good side dishes, attracts customers who are less price sensitive.”

Janine Walker Greenleaf, a communicat­ions specialist in the food and restaurant industry, adds that top-notch grillhouse­s must offer more than just a great piece of meat.

“While quality cuts are nonnegotia­ble, ideally in a variety of wet and dry aged options, and traceabili­ty for grass-fed and organic sources, presentati­on requires ample considerat­ion. Top chefs also consider what accompanie­s specific cuts of meat, which is driving a change in the ubiquitous sides — the standard chips and creamed spinach are inadequate.”

Commenting on The Bull Run’s updated menu, Trapido says it has moved beyond retrochic. “I believe grillhouse­s should be retro, and The Bull Run’s ‘new’ menu is deliciousl­y dated. Its other charm is the inclusion of old-school South African touches, such as butternut roasted in honey, and monkeyglan­d sauce.”

The Bull Run’s owner, Ivan van Rensburg, believes the restaurant’s recipe for success lies in delivering an exceptiona­l grillhouse experience.

“That entails great service from passionate, experience­d staff, and offering the best quality food and beverage selection in the right environmen­t.”

And The Bull Run’s loyal staff complement, which includes complex executive chef Jacques Etsebeth and Bull Run chef Alan Bridge, who have worked there for more than a decade, ensures it delivers consistent service.

The refurbishm­ent also sought to accentuate the ambiance, with new décor, styling and lighting to modernise the experience.

Says Walker Greenleaf: “We’re witnessing the ‘Instagram effect’ on restaurant design. Aesthetics matter, and design has become as important as the menu itself.”

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