Strict pandemic rules constrict fleshpots of Bangkok
After falling silent for three-and-a-half months, Bangkok’s nightclubs, bars and other nightspots reopened their doors last week.
This fifth stage of the country’s semilockdown, imposed in mid-March, is the surest sign yet that Thailand, after apparent success bringing Covid-19 under control, is returning to its old, unruly self.
The Thai capital is known for its louche, libertine night-time attractions, from the raucous gay clubs off Silom Road to the backpacker beer bars and streetside laughing-gas vendors in old Bangkok’s Khaosan neighbourhood.
But the fleshpots will have to operate under exacting conditions set by the government’s Covid-19 committee. Under guidelines published last week, no singing or dancing near sitting tables will be allowed. Beer pitchers, towers and other shared containers are banned.
“It’s going to be boring,” predicts Phil Prajya, an anchorman on Thailand’s Channel 1 and occasional social commentator. “It’s not going to be Bangkok like Bangkok.” But with so many social-distancing and other restrictions in place, he says: “It might be the ideal place for introverts.”
Customers will be required to check in to nightclubs and bars via an app on their phones.
Musicians and other stage performers will have to wear face shields. “Beer cheer” girls who sit at customers’ tables to encourage them to drink will not be allowed to ply their trade.
“No singing, or dancing near tables?” exclaims astonished Chagkai Jermkwan, MD of The Stranger Bar, a Silom drag cabaret venue.
Chagkai, who performs under the nom de drag M Stranger Fox, worries about the viability of the bar, an intimate loft-like space where, before the pandemic, drag queens would strut down a staircase before interacting with customers. “It’s a drag show; they want to smell us, they want to feel the sweat,” he says. “It’s not a movie. They want to see us live.”
Health officials have reason to be cautious. After confirming fewer than 3,200 Covid-19 cases and 58 deaths, Thailand has reported no new local transmissions for more than a month. But a state of emergency remains in place, and authorities have made clear that if the easing of nightlife goes awry, they will clamp down.
Some of Thailand’s early infection clusters were traced back to boxing arenas or nightspots. One cluster of infected people, now known as “The Thonglor Eleven” shared drinks and cigarettes in a pub.
News coverage of the Covid committee’s recommendations managed to skirt territory bordering on prim and prurient, with serious titles reporting under what conditions “soapy massage” might be allowed to resume. Clients and staff will have to wear face masks “except when bathing”.
“Some of the rules are not practical,” says Sanga Ruangwattanakul, president of the Khaosan Business Association. Thailand’s nightlife shutdown has been arduous for club owners and their employees. It is just one piece of the crisis gripping a serviceheavy economy that in normal times thrives on consumption and foreign tourists.
The government approved soft loans for imperilled businesses and emergency cash handouts for freelancers. Some night spots and their employees, including part of the staff of The Stranger, were eligible, but many others fell through the cracks.
With Thailand cautiously reopening to foreigners, some night spots are pivoting their marketing. One of these is The Club, a dance spot formerly popular with farang (white) backpackers, that is now targeting Thai students. “The local crowd might be a lot easier, and keep their moral etiquette when they go out and drink,” says Nic
Diamantopoulos, general manager.
He says the club will be sending security staff on rounds to prevent dancing. “You can dance a bit, but you can’t go all out crazy,” he says.
However, it is unclear how many Bangkokers will feel like going out. “I want to see how it goes first,” says Prajya. “I don’t think it’s going to be fun. I might throw a house party with a few friends.”
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