Business Day

Fashion supply chain restart post-Covid 19

- By John Watling MD within the Retail business at Accenture in Africa

The apparel sector has been fundamenta­lly altered by the impact of Covid-19. In recent months, we have seen increasing pressure on the sector due to abrupt order cancellati­ons, halted payments for suppliers and workers along with enforced factory and store closures. This is against a background of falling customer spending and a sharp decline in demand for clothing and footwear.

When the dust begins to settle, clothing manufactur­ers and their supply chain partners will need to rebuild their supply chains to serve a radically different set of circumstan­ces. Nonetheles­s, the importance of developing sustainabl­e practices remains paramount. This “restart” gives brands and retailers an opportunit­y to fundamenta­lly reassess their ways of working and, crucially, work alongside manufactur­ers and suppliers to build sustainabl­e mechanisms into their supply chain to transform the industry.

More than 150-billion garments are manufactur­ed worldwide each year, often ending up far across the globe from where they were created. The annual global spend on fashion equates to the GDP of the world’s 126 poorest countries.

Improving the transparen­cy of the production system could have a singular effect on sustainabi­lity for customers, workforces, stakeholde­rs and our planet. This is one of the great challenges in the manufactur­ing world: how to bring transparen­cy and traceabili­ty to incredibly complicate­d systems, and how to use it to drive sustainabl­e and ethical practices. But the potential benefits are huge and, given the scale of the process, there is a range of opportunit­ies.

Research conducted by a team at The Dock, Accenture’s flagship R&D and innovation centre, finds an emerging picture of a sector that is ready for disruption and willing to change. In Threads that Bind: Transformi­ng the Supply Chain, we marry this with insights from some of the world’s largest clothing manufactur­ers and identify six key considerat­ions for restarting the fashion supply chain in a post-pandemic world:

● Brands and suppliers need to make sustainabi­lity systemic by making it integral to their strategy. This means aligning their existing purpose with sustainabi­lity goals and considerin­g it against measures of business growth. This should make sustainabi­lity an equivalent factor to cost, lead time and quality.

● Sustainabi­lity only works if it makes economic sense. Our research shows how brands and suppliers can understand how to reduce their negative impact on the ecosystem to maintain and grow their business in the long term.

● Organisati­ons need to develop partnershi­ps and build strategic cross-tier relationsh­ips to put themselves on the leading edge of the industry.

● The industry needs to find common ground when it comes to sustainabi­lity standards and working practices. The good news is that the industry already operates in an environmen­t of high interdepen­dence so this should be an extension of existing practices, rather than a radical evolution.

● Audits are an industry-wide challenge. If brands collaborat­e to standardis­e audit requiremen­ts and their frequency, they could radically improve the efficiency and visibility of one of the most challengin­g parts of the apparel supply chain.

● Legacy systems need a radical restyle. Brands and suppliers need to improve inefficien­t processes by upgrading systems and unlocking the trapped value in the formidable amount of data they are already collecting.

Speaking to Colleen Connolly, Senior Innovation Lead at Accenture’s The Dock, about these principles, she shared this insight: “When we were conducting this research earlier this year, it was perceived that greater transparen­cy in the supply chain was blocked due to the system being unchangeab­le because it was indeed unstoppabl­e. Now, we are looking at this industry in pause and the frenetic pace of production is being put under the microscope with people and businesses reassessin­g what they really need. Sustainabi­lity and transparen­cy must be front and centre when retail businesses press play again.”

This is an industry that is heavily interdepen­dent, as illustrate­d by recent challenges. However, this can be turned to its advantage. Creating meaningful change will require a huge amount of collaborat­ion across strategy, transparen­cy, trust and guidance — but, unlike other sectors, many of these companies are accustomed to working with each other, meaning they are already primed for change. From securing sustainabl­e water supplies to evolving shared auditing principles, a resilient supply chain will be essential to future-proofing their business.

Doing nothing is not an option — when it comes to sustainabi­lity, brands no longer have the luxury of choice around whether to share their consumers’ values. And the risk is higher when it comes to fashion: this is an industry where the consumer expects to see their own shifting values and tastes reflected almost immediatel­y on the rack. In a post-Covid world, customers are likely to be even more discerning than ever before.

There is no one solution to such a problem, technology will not solve all these issues, but it can be used to improve conditions and transparen­cy in nearly all of them.

CREATING MEANINGFUL CHANGE WILL REQUIRE COLLABORAT­ION ACROSS STRATEGY, TRANSPAREN­CY, TRUST AND GUIDANCE

 ??  ?? John Watling … sustainabi­lity.
John Watling … sustainabi­lity.

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