Bubbly the new sake with sushi

Many of New York City’s most sought-after reservations are at elegant, not to mention pricey, sushi counters. These omakase, or chef’s-choice menus, range from minimalist, traditional Japanese style meals, where the fish is simply brushed with soya sauce, to more creative offerings with powerful garnishes such as caviar and kimchi. In Japan, the pairing of choice is generally green tea or sake.

But in New York, high-end Japanese restaurants increasingly believe that wine and spirit pairings should be an option, too. It’s important enough that new sushi spots like Joji at One Vanderbilt and Kotaru in Midtown West have installed beverage directors to help guide customers. Many places now offer expanded bythe-glass wine options. (Spoiler alert: If you’re looking for one wine that pairs well with most sushi orders, it’s Champagne.)

At the Michelin-starred Sushi Noz on the Upper East Side, there are almost 1,000 options, ranging from funky juras from France to fancy bubbles. Beverage director Gene Sidorov says that “wines provide a more diverse and unique beverage pairing option” to accompany the dishes.

Noda beverage director Jonathan Adler introduced a Champagne-only drinks pairing. Adler says it’s the optimal accompaniment as the wine’s effervescence allows “the taste of the fish to linger harmoniously with the flavour of the Champagne”.

A sushi beverage pairing depends on a number of factors: the type of seafood; if it’s been aged and, if so, for how long; whether it’s been seasoned with soya sauce; whether it’s been garnished with fiery wasabi.

But there are some guidelines that can help ensure that you aren’t ruining your pricey fish.

Fatty tuna like chu-toro

The pairing: Dry rosé Champagne or a floral shochu such as SG Kome. Why: A flavoured rosé Champagne is a wonderful accompaniment to fattier sushi, especially luxurious o-toro. Louis Andia, GM at Nakaji on the Bowery, prefers Dom Perignon rosé. He says the fish’s unctuousness “stands up to the tannins, while the acidity cuts the fattiness”.

Shellfish like ebi (shrimp) or scallop (hotate)

The pairing: A herbaceous French sauvignon blanc, such as Pascal Jolivet. Why: “A wellchilled glass of sauvignon blanc,” says Sushi of Gari manager Tomomi Hiroishi, is the best pairing for sweet shellfish.

Lean and mild-flavoured fish, like ika (squid) or kinmedia (golden eye snapper)

The pairing: Champagne, preferably a blanc de blanc, such as Champagne Larmandier-Bernier or Krug grand cuvée. Why: A nonvintage Champagne with subtly nuanced flavours works with the delicate taste of leaner fish. Noda’s Adler says that the chardonnay grapes in a blanc de blancs “provides wonderful acidity and minerality to allow the flavours of the nigiri, and its delicate taste, to shine through”.

Roes, like uni or ikura (salmon roe)

The pairing: A nutty-tasting Champagne, such as Vilmart & Cie or Chartogne-Taillet. Why: Sushi Noz’s Sidorov believes that creamy uni “goes well with an especially textural and savoury Champagne”. He says to look for one that’s savoury and not too acidic with oxidated flavours that will balance the uni while still carrying its salty minerality.