Coastal meander takes in a cool sea dip and ice-cold beers
• A return to the Explorers Garden Route unearths plenty of treasure
The section of the southern Cape between Witsand and Vleesbaai has been cleverly branded the Explorers Garden Route. About a year ago, I followed it up to Stilbaai, which left me the tract between Melkhoutfontein and outer Mossel Bay still to explore.
I regain the coastal dirt track outside Melkhoutfontein, just on the other side of Stilbaai. Even with the tyres deflated to standard gravel pressure (1.6 bar all round) it’s still a rough and potholed road; but in between holding onto my hat I’m rewarded with a near horizon of royal-blue sea views and a steady flow of cool air wafting through the car.
En route to the tar road outside Gouritsmond I pass the entrance to the old Reins Private Nature Reserve. It’s now the Gourikwa Reserve and I’m informed this 2,000ha reserve, with its 5km of pristine coastline, has had significant upgrades since ownership was transferred. I also learn they have single rates for lone wanderers like me and vow to be back soon.
Though my day’s destination (a rustic cottage in the wilds above Boggomsbaai) encourages me to cross the turquoise waters of the Gourits River without delay, I decide to detour through Gouritsmond and onto Borrelfontein Farm’s Sea House, another old haunt of mine.
After stopping to appreciate the views over the pebble shores to the creamy wave tops near the river mouth, I embark on the 14km drive to Borrelfontein in the west. I’m not even a kilometre into my journey when a tidal pool lures me in for a swim; refreshed I continue along the rugged shoreline, punctuated with gnarled rocks and hopefullooking fishermen.
Later, I resume my route eastward across the Gourits River and make for the peninsula of Fransmanshoek, the east-pointing finger of land that separates Visbaai from Vleesbaai.
The origins of these bays’ titles are both confusing and interesting.
Vleesbaai was named in 1601 by Dutch sailor Paulus van Caerden, but its name is erroneously placed on today’s maps. The original bay so named is the one to the south of modern-day Vleesbaai, today known as Visbaai.
The Portuguese were the first European explorers in the region (Bartolomeu Dias, 1488) and after their successful bartering for cattle with the local Gouriqua Khoi, they named today’s Kanonpunt, Cape Vacca (Cow Point). Many years later, the Dutch, who were exploring the area in two ships, caught huge amounts of fish in modern-day Vleesbaai and named it Visbaai; while their sister ship (the one Van Caerden was on) bartered for tonnes of meat with the Gouriqua in modern-day Visbaai; which was, of course, why they called it Vleesbaai.
Adding to the confusing nomenclature in the region are the number of “sub-bays” of today’s Vleesbaai branded by developers over the past six decades or so. These include the settlements of Vleesbaai itself, Boggomsbaai, Springer Bay and Dana Bay.
While also known as Vleespunt, the origin of Fransmanshoek is thankfully easier to understand. The French warship, La Fortune, was wrecked east of the Gourits River mouth in 1763 at a local spring known as Fonteintjie. It’s an epically beautiful promontory, with many coves surrounded by the endemic orange lichen-covered rocks.
Fred Orban of Sandpiper guest cottages is a man with deep roots in the region. He tells me that in the mid-1970s he acquired a parcel of land here with about 3km of coastline. He’s sold most of it off now as residential property, and with the nearest commercial undertakings some distance away, the coastal enclave has retained its rural feel.
I follow him down a farm track to my aptly named “Kaia” cottage. It’s nestled in the fynbos and aloes on the edge of an open field, and while there’s another chalet in front of it (Pondokkie) it’s unoccupied today. There’s not a soul for kilometres around me, just plentiful birdlife and a panoramic view of Vleesbaai to keep me company. Bliss.
During a long stroll along Boggomsbaai’s expansive white beach the next day, I’m reminded of the famous 48km slackpacking Oystercatcher Trail that runs between Mossel Bay and Gouritsmond. It’s been on my bucket list for some time, but for now a few kilometres along the racing water’s edge will have to do; besides it’s time to swing inland for more exploring.
My next destination is the town of Heidelberg and my mate, Bruce Houghting, is meeting me at the old Heidelberg Hotel. Its Art Deco facade and nostalgic aura piqued my interest some time back and I promised myself I’d stay over one day. Though we’re not sure what to expect, Bruce and I plan to pound the streets later and see what historical footnotes we can drum up about this underexplored town.
As always, my journey on dirt tracks parallel to the main tar routes is as important as the destination. My first back route of the day is a new one marked “Buffelsfontein”, a serene magic carpet ride through lush farmlands punctuated with occasional shade trees (some broom cluster figs) that stave off the sun while I enjoy coffee and rusks from my stash.
The next is an old favourite. The Cooper railway siding gravel road conducts me up aloe dotted hills and down bushy dales, past Indalu Game Reserve (I see a large herd of impala and a few elephants, too) all the way to the tarred R327 to pastoral Herbertsdale.
I later stop in at Jakkalsvlei Private Cellar en route to Riversdale. Here Annaleen Klew presents me with the first bunch of just-harvested Muscat grapes. Pointing to the burgeoning throng of diners on the stoep overlooking the verdant valley, she explains that most patrons come here for their value-for-money wine pairing menu. But I eschew this tantalising option and invest a few hundred rand on three takeaway bottles of wine instead.
The remaining 90km of dirt track dawdling to Heidelberg sees me pass through picturesque mixed farmlands, fynbos-covered hills and a few bristling pine plantations.
I find Bruce slaking his thirst on the cricket pitch-sized stoep of the Heidelberg Hotel. In his biker boots and neckerchief he fits into the anachronistic surroundings well, though a pocket watch and neat brandy in a glass tumbler would roundoff his period casting.
After booking into our basic yet comfortable and airconditioned rooms (with balconies) we don our walking gear and set off on our preprandial, self-guided historical walking tour. It’s apparently something once offered as a tourist activity here, but we can’t locate a guide.
However, our bumble around the northerly side of town, to the Duiwenhoks River in the east (named for the many doves nesting in trees on the river bank by early Dutch explorer, Ensign Schrijver) rewards with many sightings of well-cared for Victorian and Edwardian buildings; some, such as the magnificent NG Kerk (1913 — built and paid for by the congregation) still bearing faded plaques of provenance. Added to these, we discover an assortment of appealing-looking bric-a-brac shops, galleries and guest houses.
A long cold beer on the stoep, accompanied by the noise of some increasingly voluble regulars, seems a fitting way to toast our discoveries; as is the simple burger dinner and talk of our parallel travel route home to Bot River the next day.
Travel notes
Getting there and onward routing: Follow the N2 and R305 towards Stilbaai, the turnoff to Melkhoutfontein (the start of the route) is about 5km before Stilbaai. To find your way around the rest of the route, I suggest buying a copy of Slingsby’s Garden Route map. What sort of vehicle will I need: The whole route is doable in a high-clearance SUV, but during or after wet weather, an AWD or 4x4 is preferable.
Where I stayed and other recommendations:
Kaia cottage of the Sandpiper collection in Boggomsbaai (set in wild and natural vegetation, it’s rustic, but also supplies every comfort required for a peaceful self-catering stay — call 044 699 1204 or 081 071 6735) and the Heidelberg Hotel (a well-restored Art Deco hostelry offering old country hotel nostalgia with few frills; but the beer is ice-cold, the burgers aren’t bad and the staff are friendly and helpful — contact 028 722 1860 or Dwayne on 060 420 0854). For a rustic chalet stay right on the rocks west of Gouritsmond, I can also recommend Sea House on Borrelfontein Farm (contact Franklin on 087 702 9334 or 063 630 4120).
Best time of year to go:
February to May and August to November.
Other useful contact numbers:
Hessequa Municipality for tourism queries — 028-713 8000.
AS ALWAYS, MY JOURNEY ON DIRT TRACKS PARALLEL TO THE MAIN TAR ROUTES IS AS IMPORTANT AS THE DESTINATION