Bat for lashes
Of course those eyelashes are fake… and they’re spectacular, writes Robin Givhan
WHETHER it’s celebrities on the red carpet, TV anchors, a former first lady or the barista at your local coffee shop, eyes are rimmed with thick dark fringe. In this era, women of all ages have eyelashes so long and lush that a sideways glance is akin to a monologue on femininity, personal power and the irresistible pleasures of a beauty salon.
What was once make-up reserved for a special occasion has become everyday glamour. False eyelashes are everywhere. Delicate butterfly wings. Furry caterpillars. Spidery appendages. Lashes that recall a long-ago era of effort and agreeable artificiality. Fussy, fake lashes are a counterbalance to today’s who-givesa-damn sweatpants and hoodies. And they are their own form of 21st-century feminism.
If a girl likes make-up, let her wear it, the acclaimed novelist Chimamanda Adichie advised last year.
“Women have learnt to be ashamed and apologetic about pursuits that are seen as traditionally female, such as fashion and make-up.” Sorry? Not sorry. Big, spiky, dramatic ones helped turn Kim Kardashian into a reality show mogul. Dense fluffy ones are fundamental to the retro glamour of Adele. The Catch would lose a smidge of its glittery, catand-mouse panache without the coquettish lashes of star Mireille Enos.
And wispy strips are part of the makeup arsenal of any female news anchor worthy of a close-up. (Rachel Maddow let a reporter tug on her lashes to prove they were real.)
Since 2012, false eyelash sales have grown by 75%.
Some wearers aim for subtlety. They don’t want you to notice their lashes as much as they’d like you to simply admire how their eyes just seem so big and beautiful. Others revel in the sheer audacity of their falsies, layering two strips of lashes on a single lid. So what if one strip isn’t quite tamped down? Yes, that’s a cream-coloured blob of errant glue. There’s glory in the fakery.
According to Eyelash magazine (yes, really, a trade journal) the most in-demand lashes are those framing the eyes of Kardashian, her half-sisters Kylie and Kendall Jenner, and Angelina Jolie.
False eyelashes are ubiquitous “in other countries as well,” says Carl Ray, the well-travelled make-up artist to former first lady Michelle Obama.
Obama may or may not be wearing false eyelashes; you’re just going to have to zoom in close on all those fancy dinner and inauguration photographs and judge for yourself, because Ray is definitely not going to discuss the state of her lashes.
Some natural lashes look robust thanks to many, many coats of mascara. And some people use a lash-growing serum.
In general, however, Ray does not recommend that clients wear false eyelashes to, say, a parent-teacher conference or the grocery store. “I recommend them for pictures and special occasions.”
He adds: “When you wear lashes, you don’t have to wear much make-up. You’re always camera ready.” Ray’s clients love them. “Would you like lashes?” “I thought you’d never ask.” False eyelashes “change the shape of your face”, says Kelli J Bartlett, the director of make-up artistry for Glamsquad, the in-home beauty Swat team that recently opened in Washington, DC. “They elongate the shape of the eye.”
For those attempting the no-make-up make-up look, lashes become key. “When you have a flirty lash and eyebrows, you feel on point.”
Bartlett confides that she has been called “the lash whisperer”. Tell us more, please. “I can get them on in under 90 seconds.”
Search Amazon’s beauty category for false eyelashes and you are rewarded with more than 15 000 listings. There are cruelty-free lashes, reusable lashes, human hair lashes, synthetic mink ones and real mink ones. Students of popular culture might remember that Jennifer Lopez wore red fox eyelashes to the Oscars in 2001, along with a see-through Chanel dress. And Madonna wore mink and diamond lashes during a promotional tour in 2004.
“Mink is considered the Rolls-Royce of lashes,” Bartlett says. They’re soft; they’re light. But really, how heavy can cheap lashes be?
One could go to a boutique cosmetics company such as MAC and spend $17 (R230) on a single pair of lashes. Or, do what the vast majority of women and a lot of make-up artists do, and head to the nearest chemist for a pair of lashes.
Ardell, which has been in business for 45 years, is arguably the queen of lashes. Its California-based parent company, American International Industries, specialises in false eyelashes, as well as pretty much anything you’d find in a nail salon. It distributes 60 different lash brands in all, but Ardell is its flagship line. Last year, Ardell saw a 30% increase in sales, says Marwan Zreik, the vice-president of marketing for AII.
Zreik says the rise in sales is because more people are adopting false eyelashes and because “heavy users” are wearing them more often. “Some customers don’t leave home without lashes on,” he says. Those women are probably wearing lashes made from natural human hair and an enduring style called “wispies”, which have a criss-crossing pattern to mimic the random growth pattern of natural lashes. They are handmade. They’re practically bespoke.
What is driving all the lash love? Reality television. Celebrities. And social media, of course. Make-up tutorials on YouTube, including one by Adele’s own make-up artist, have demystified the application process, which frankly hasn’t changed since Hollywood first started putting them on starlets’ lids during the early part of the last century. Glue and a deft touch.
“Think of the women in the 1960s and 1970s who put them on every morning,” says Ray. “Practice makes perfect.” And people are practising daily.
According to Zreik, 99.9% of customers are women. Although in the age of James Charles, CoverGirl’s first male model and an eyelash fan, a few fellas are buying and wearing them.
“Everyone wants to be camera-ready all the time,” Zreik says. “Put a pair of lashes on a woman and it’s instant impact.” – The Washington Post