Sephardic Challah with Whole Spices

Makes 2 round loaves

75g raisins, dark or golden or a combination (optional) 10g plus 30g sesame seeds 10g caraway or coriander seeds 10g anise, cumin or poppy seeds 7g active dry yeast 600g bread flour, more for dusting work surface 30g extra-virgin olive oil, more for oiling bowl and pans

30 to 60g honey (depending on how sweet you like your challah) 2 eggs, at room temperature (optional) 16g kosher salt Cornmeal, for dusting 2 egg yolks

If using, cover raisins in 2 cups warm water and let plump for 30 minutes. Drain well and set aside. In a pan, toast 1 tablespoon sesame, the caraway and the anise or other seeds over moderate heat until fragrant, 2 minutes. Transfer to a plate and let cool. In a small bowl, combine yeast with 2 tablespoons warm water. Let stand until thoroughly moistened, about 5 minutes.

In the bowl of a standing electric mixer fitted with the dough hook, combine flour with olive oil, honey, eggs (if using) and warm water (3/4 cup if using eggs; 1½ cups if not). Mix at low speed until a soft dough forms. If it is stiff, add warm water, a tablespoon at a time.

Add salt, yeast mixture and toasted seeds and mix at medium-low speed until the dough is supple and smooth, 10 minutes.

Mix in raisins.

Using oiled hands, transfer the dough to a large oiled bowl.

Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let stand in a draft-free spot until the dough is doubled, 1½ to 2 hours.

Lightly oil two small cookie sheets and dust them with cornmeal.

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface and press to deflate.

Cut the dough in half and let rest for 5 minutes. Roll each piece into an 45cm-long rope and let rest for 5 minutes longer, then roll each rope into a 81cm rope.

Take a rope and, starting from one end, form the dough into a coil; tuck the ends under the completed coil. Repeat with the remaining rope. Transfer each coil to a baking sheet and cover each loaf with a large inverted bowl.

Let stand for 1 hour, until the loaves have nearly doubled in bulk.

(The risen loaves can be frozen, wrapped, for up to 2 weeks; top and bake just before serving.) Heat oven to 200°C. In a bowl, whisk egg yolks with 1 tablespoon water.

Brush the egg wash over the loaves and let stand uncovered for 30 minutes.

Brush with the egg wash once more and sprinkle with the reserved sesame seeds.

Bake the loaves side-by-side in the centre of the oven for 30 minutes, until they’re golden and sound hollow when tapped on the bottom.

Transfer the loaves to racks and let cool before serving or slicing. – The New York Times