IN THE BO-KAAP KOMBUIS: YUSUF LARNEY
Restaurant keeps Bo-Kaap traditions and Malay cuisine alive – as do the owner’s stories
A VISIT to the Bo-Kaap is almost incomplete without a pop-in at Bo-Kaap Kombuis (kitchen) in this iconic suburb with its colourful homes.
It is here that you will find Yusuf Larney, the owner of this Cape Malay restaurant and an encyclopedia of all things Bo-Kaap.
Mixed with the aromas and flavours of his mouthwatering dishes are his stories of the rich history of Bo-Kaap and the people who live there, with which he regales his customers.
Larney was born in District Six in 1955 and lived there for a short period before he was evicted from the area, because of the Group Areas Act, during the early 1960s.
He was the second-eldest sibling in a family of nine children. He says that he naturally fell into the role of being the head of the brood.
They then relocated to Bonteheuwel, which was still developing.
Larney moved to Bo-Kaap when he was 11 years old and has lived there ever since.
He attended Schotsche Kloof Primary School.
“When we came to Bo-Kaap, I was quite astounded by my friends here. By 4pm every day, my siblings and I were washed and in pyjamas, ready for bed, and we couldn’t go outside. But we would peek through the windows and see all of our friends still playing outside. For me, that was kind of a strange thing,” said Larney.
“What I will never forget about growing up in Bo-Kaap is the great respect we had to have for elders. Even if we were playing a hell of a good game of cricket or soccer in the street and someone called you from their flat to go to the shop, you could never even think of saying ‘no’. If you didn’t go, then that night you would get it from your father. All the adults around you were your parents, you had to listen to all of them,” said Larney.
He said this was a really good way to be brought up because it taught them the importance of respect.
Larney and his wife Nazli grew up together in Bo-Kaap and together with a few family and friends established the Bo-Kaap Kombuis. “The whole place was put up by professionals, but I am always very happy to say that it was all done by our own people, and the culture of neighbours coming to help still remains,” said Larney.
He describes the establishment of the Kombuis as a culmination of very dear friends, good neighbours and honourable family members.
Bo-Kaap Kombuis was established in July 2006, but Larney acquired the idea of a restaurant during his years at Trafalgar High School.
“This was a goal that was born there on the benches of Trafalgar High School, and when I started this restaurant I would clean the floors, wash the dishes and help Nazli cook the food.”
The Bo-kaap Kombuis still provides traditional Malay dishes to visitors. The dishes are a reflection of the history and culture of living in Bo-Kaap.
He describes their food as huis kos (home food), the food that people grew up with and that their mothers made in their homes.
The heritage of Bo-Kaap still remains at the Bo-Kaap Kombuis through its authentic cuisine.