Getting to grips with sumo culture

THE sound of bodies slapping against each other rocks the stifling sumo “stable” in the Japanese city of Nagoya, as 11 gigantic wrestlers wearing only loincloths take turns throwing each other out of a ring of sand.

The wrestlers, or rikishi, at the prestige Tomozuna stable spend more than three hours each morning practising holds in Japan’s 15-century-old national sport, with defeat facing the first to fall or be forced out of the ring.

With rare permission granted by sumo’s governing body, reporters were able to observe the stable’s wrestlers training at their temporary Buddhist temple base for the Nagoya Grand Sumo Tournament that began, and gained insight into the intricacies of sumo.

Entering the world of sumo is to eat, live, and breathe Japanese – from the samurai-style topknots to the rigid hierarchy.

But the tough training and tradition-bound ways have put off many Japanese youth, leaving sumo to be dominated by foreign – mostly Mongolian – wrestlers, who face a gruelling path to assimilation.

“Language was the biggest source of stress,” said Tomozuna Oyakata, better known by his fighting name Kyokutenho, the first Mongolian-born wrestler to lead a sumo stable.

“I couldn’t understand anything when I was being scolded, or even when I was being praised,” said the master, one of the first six Mongolians to be inducted into the sport in 1992.

The one-time champion, who was born Nyamjavyn Tsevegnyam, now speaks near-flawless Japanese, has a Japanese wife, and has given up his Mongolian nationality to become Japanese – a requirement to become a sumo master, or oyakata.

After ending practice at 10.30am, the wrestlers mingle with fans, sign autographs and pose for photos before the first of their two daily meals.

Lunch, prepared by the junior wrestlers, is a spread of pig’s feet, grilled and deep-fried sardines, steamed rice, and chanko nabe – a signature hot-pot dish associated with sumo wrestlers, who are said to consume 8 000 calories a day.

The wrestlers nap for several hours immediately after eating.

Full assimilation into Japanese culture means that foreign wrestlers face no illwill.

“We wear our topknots, kimonos and sandals, and live by Japanese rules, and the rules of sumo,” said Oyakata.

“It’s only by chance that we were born a different nationality.”

Pictures: REUTERS CLASH: The Tomozuna stable wrestlers put in a tough training session.

FEASTING: Sumo wrestler Kaiho eats a chanko in the main hall of Ganjoji Yakushido temple in Nagoya, Japan.

JUST BREATHE: Kaiho at the Ganjoji Yakushido temple, where sumo wrestlers are training for the Nagoya Grand Sumo Tournament.

UNIFORM: A sand-covered loincloth, or mawashi, worn by a sumo wrestler is seen during a training session at Ganjoji Yakushido temple.