CHARMING CESKÝ
Pronounced ‘Chesky Kroomloff’, this quaint medieval town is a World Heritage Site, and still surprisingly affordable for us South Africans.
A quaint, quirky – and affordable – medieval Czech town
The historic centre of Ceský Krumlov is a Unesco World Heritage Site, and was declared second only to Venice on the World Heritage list. One of the main reasons for that is because, unlike so many European towns, it’s enjoyed peace for five centuries, which means the buildings are perfectly preserved: a Rapunzel tower, a Gothic fortress converted into a Renaissance chateau, a Gothic town hall, a cobblestone town square, a castle that dates back to 1240 and loads of cosy pubs leading out onto the winding Vltava River.
Spending a few days in this charming little town in the Czech Republic – rather than just visiting on a day trip from Prague – is utter bliss. There’s plenty to see, countless photo opportunities and more than a handful of quaint drinking holes. Legend has it that the name Krumlov is derived from a German word that means ‘crooked meadow’, which aptly describes the topography of the town along the meandering river.
Ceský Krumlov has changed very little over the centuries, although during the communist era it wasn’t very well maintained. Luckily, since the Velvet Revolution (so called because it was non-violent) in late 1989, much of it has been restored to its former glory. It’s very easy to stroll around the town – you can marvel at the castle, amble through the historic town centre, visit the castle garden and the Church of St Vitus, view art at the Egon Schiele Centre and go to the synagogue (lovingly restored but often not open). You can also include at least three museums as part of your itinerary – the Marionette Museum, housed in a deconsecrated church, the Wax Museum (Voskove Figuriny) and the Loutek Puppet Museum in Pohadkova Dum (Fairytale House).
The facade of the puppet museum doesn’t reveal the magic within, but their website prepares you for the experience: ‘Once upon a time, there was a little town. In that town, there was a house. It was not an ordinary house, though – it was magical. Many creatures lived in it, such as the water spirit “vodník” with captured souls of drowned men, the bandits of the Blanský Forest…’
Whichever narrow picturesque lane you choose to walk down, you will still be able to hear the gurgling of the river, and every few blocks takes you across another
footbridge. Signposts for guesthouses, restaurants and pubs are hand-painted on curlicued wrought iron, often with a pewter beaker dangling on the side, and medieval lanterns cast their yellow light.
At Two Marys (U dwau Maryí), mead is served in goblets, and buckwheat and millet dishes are made using ancient recipes. It was originally built between two town walls, and two murals of the Virgin Mary were discovered during restoration.
When hunger strikes, Pod Radnicí has good local trout; Nonna Gina serves authentic Italian food; Deli 99 specialises in bagels and organic juices (and has Wi-Fi!); Monastery Garden offers iced tea and water pipes; and at Laibon Vegetariánská Restaurace, candles flicker on tables under vaulted ceilings. For those with a sweet tooth, Ceský Perník has bragging rights to old-Bohemian gingerbread. Many establishments serve trdelnik, a traditional hollow sweet-and-spicy pastry, as well as crêpes with baked apples.
Bohemian gastro-pub The Good Soldier Svejk, named after the novel by Jaroslav Hašek, is famous for its food and beer among locals and tourists alike. There’s no shortage of beer, actually: the town also has its own brewery, Eggenberg. But it’s not just about the beer. Apotheke Cocktail Bar is housed in a converted pharmacy. Elegant wood-and-glass cabinets hark from
Whichever picturesque lane you choose to walk down, you will still hear the gurgling of the river, and every few blocks takes you across a footbridge. Signposts are hand-painted on curlicued wrought iron…
the era of the apothecary. You should probably have the absinthe while you’re here. Also known as la fée verte (the green fairy), absinthe is an anise-flavoured spirit that contains the leaves and flowers of wormwood. Before you indulge too heavily – the ritual involves dripping ice-cold water onto a sugar cube, sometimes set alight, on a flat filigreed spoon to cause the sugar to melt slowly into the drink – you’d do well to remember these words from the early 1900s (exaggerated, of course): ‘Absinthe makes you crazy… and has killed thousands of people. It makes a ferocious beast of man, a martyr of woman, and a degenerate of the infant. It disorganises and ruins the family and menaces the future of the country!’
Coming across some intriguing outdoor installations – many by ceramicist Miroslav Páral – doesn’t necessarily mean you’ve ignored the warnings and had too much absinthe. But a garden seat with four inward-turned human feet, a round billboard placed on tiptoes to suggest a kissing couple, another balancing on fingertips, a wooden bench with giant thorns, a table with human legs and a redhandled door keeping itself company on a free-standing staircase do tend to make you doubt your sobriety.
At Army-Výlet Czech, those interested in the military buy old-issue berets, badges, camouflage items and outdoor torches from the former Czech-Slovak army.
Dum Ceských Remesel (House of Czech Crafts) stocks a wide range of wooden toys and local handicrafts. Siroká Ulice (Broad Street) houses a few alternative boutiques. Browse in corner shops and mini-markets for unusual ingredients to incorporate into your next dinner party back home.
Ceský Krumlov gets really busy only over peak season in the summer months or when it hosts a festival, which it often does. If you intend to visit during these times, you’ll need to book accommodation well in advance. The rest of the year it’s not necessary – there’s a pension wherever you happen to cast an eye.