ACID REIGN
Salycylic, hyaluronic, glycolic…huh? Get the low-down on the acids that are good for your skin type
if you’ve ever read the little description on the side of the box your serum comes in and felt your eyes glaze over, know this: I can totally relate. A lot of the jargon used in beauty campaigns washes over me like white noise. There’s usually a woman in a white coat, a diagram of the layers in your skin and then some scientific explanation of… nope, you’ve lost me. So I’m going to try to keep this simple. Here are the main players:
1 HYALURONIC ACID
Hyaluronic acid is naturally produced in the body; it’s what makes your skin look dewy and youthful when you’re 10. Or 20. (You know, that look you spend the rest of your life trying to recreate with highlighters and illuminating serums…)
What does it do?
Hyaluronic acid is a humectant, which just means that it traps moisture – it’s capable of holding up to a 1000 times its own weight in water. Sadly, as you get older, your body produces less of it. Sun damage can also deplete your skin’s natural supply.
Who is it suitable for?
Anyone really. Most people’s skin can tolerate hyaluronic acid and most skin types will benefit. But it’s mainly for dry, dull or ageing skin; it’s good for fine lines and wrinkles. Plus, it’s a skin-calming antioxidant, so it has soothing properties too.
How should I use it?
Many moisturisers contain hyaluronic acid, so keep an eye out for those. If you need more hydration, try introducing a night-time serum into your skincare regime or go for a real boost of moisture with a concentrated ampoule or mask.
2 ALPHAHYDROXY ACID (AHA)
These acids come from food, plants and fruits, and they’re used to exfoliate the skin. The most-used ones are citric acid (from citrus fruits), mandelic acid (plants), lactic acid (milk), tartaric acid (grapes), malic acid (unripened fruit) and glycolic acid, which is made from sugar cane. As an article from The Cut describes it: ‘If acids were a boy band, glycolic acid would be your Justin Timberlake – the one liked by everybody.’
What does it do?
It exfoliates, improves mild textural issues (like hyperpigmentation) and brightens your skin. Dead skin cells absorb light, which is why they make your skin look dull. I’ll just let skincare guru Paula Begoun explain, shall I? ‘AHAs work to unglue the “cement” that holds dead, dull skin to the surface, keeping it from shedding naturally so it builds up.’
Who is it suitable for?
AHAs are generally well tolerated by most skin types, but are ideal for anyone with normal to dry skin, especially if you have visible signs of sun damage. Proceed with caution if you have sensitive skin.
How should I use it?
Start with glycolic acid: it has the smallest molecules, so it penetrates the skin better than the others, gently exfoliating dead skin cells and stimulating collagen. Try out a lotion or a toner before you dive into the heavy-duty peels.
3 SALICYLIC ACID (BHA)
You’ll really find only one beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) in skincare products, and that is salicylic acid, which comes from the bark of the willow tree. (Poetic, no?) If you’ve ever used an over-thecounter product designed to bust zits (less poetic) you will be familiar with it – anything with the word ‘acne’ on it probably contains salicylic acid.
What does it do?
Like AHAs, salicylic acid also exfoliates – but because it’s
oil-soluble, it penetrates deeper into the skin, unclogging pores and helping to prevent breakouts.
Who is it suitable for?
This one is best for oily and acne-prone skin. Or use it as a spot treatment on a breakout.
How should I use it?
It’s best to apply it at night; just keep in mind that you shouldn’t combine it with a retinoid – that can cause irritation and dryness. If you want to use both, alternate, and if you put it on during the day, don’t forget your SPF!
4 ASCORBIC ACID
Ascorbic acid is also known by a much friendlier-sounding name: vitamin C! It occurs naturally in your skin and in a variety of foods.
What does it do?
This miracle elixir protects your skin from environmental freeradical damage (pollution and the sun), brightens, boosts collagen synthesis, smoothes skin and evens skin tone – so it’s great for hyperpigmentation.
Who is it suitable for?
Most skin types can benefit.
How should I use it?
Introduce it into your routine in serum form. Apply it in the morning and give it some time before you layer moisturiser and sunscreen on top. Store it in a cool, dark place so it doesn’t oxidise.
5 RETINOIC ACID
Retinol turns into retinoic acid when applied; retinol is the fancy name for a form of vitamin A.
What does it do?
After sunscreen, retinol is considered the gold standard in anti-ageing: it boosts collagen and elastin production, and keeps skin looking radiant.
Who is it suitable for?
Everyone – unless you’re pregnant or breastfeeding. And if you have conditions like eczema or psoriasis, talk to your dermatologist first.
How should I use it?
Baby steps! For the first few weeks, it can irritate the skin. That’s normal; keep at it. Start with a low-concentration product (every second or third night). Apply it only at night – retinol breaks down with sun exposure – and don’t mix it with other active ingredients.