BOOK EXTRACT
Portia Mbau, chef and founder of The Africa Café in Cape Town, shares delectable dishes from her new recipe book, The Africa Cookbook.
Delicious recipes from The Africa Cookbook by Africa Café’s Portia Mbau
ETHIOPIAN BERBERE
MAKES 2 CUPS
The nomads of North Africa, the Berbers, were the original traders of the Sahara Desert. On their return to Morocco from Ethiopia, they brought spices from the coast to inland regions. Berbere paste is a spice condiment used in many of their dishes and in Ethiopian cuisine. It adds a distinctive ‘wow’ factor to stews and salad dressings. Keep a jar handy in the fridge as you’ll need it for some of my Ethiopian recipes, such as Doro Wat Chicken.
• 2 tsp ground ginger
• 1 tsp ground cardamom
• 1 tsp ground coriander
• ½ tsp fenugreek seeds
• ½ tsp ground nutmeg
• ¼ tsp ground cinnamon
• ¼ tsp ground allspice
• 2 tbsp finely chopped garlic
• 1 large onion, finely chopped
• 2 tbsp salt
• 60ml dry red wine (use leftover wine)
• 2 cups paprika
• 2 tbsp ground hot red pepper
(or cayenne pepper)
• ½ tsp milled black pepper
• 1½ cups water
• 2-3 tbsp vegetable oil, for drizzling
1. Using a non-stick pan, toast the ginger, cardamom, coriander, fenugreek, nutmeg, cinnamon and allspice over low heat for about 2 minutes, stirring constantly until they are heated through.
2. Remove the pan from the stove and let the spices cool for about 5 minutes. Toss the toasted spices into the bowl of an electric blender with the garlic, onion, 1 tablespoon of salt and the wine.
3. Blend at high speed until a smooth paste forms.
4. In the same pan, heat the paprika, red pepper, black pepper and the remaining tablespoon of salt. Toast the mixture over low heat till you can smell the spices. Stir constantly for about 2 minutes so as not to burn them.
5. Stir in the water, a quarter cup at a time.
6. Add the spice-and-wine mixture, stir vigorously and cook over the lowest possible heat for 10-15 minutes.
7. When cool, transfer the berbere into a screw-top jar. Drizzle oil on top before sealing.
SOWETO CHAKALAKA
SERVES 8
Whenever I went to weddings or funerals in Soweto, the ‘south-west township’ outside Johannesburg, I came across chakalaka. It is a mixture of inexpensive vegetables and curry powder. In Soweto chakalaka is typically served with a meat dish and a starch, such as pap, with which to soak up the sauces. My version makes a hearty vegetarian dish that can be served like a stir-fry, with rice or noodles.
• ¼ cup olive oil
• 1 onion, sliced into discs
• 1 tbsp paprika
• 1 tbsp strong curry powder
• 1 small cabbage, finely sliced
• 1 green bell pepper, sliced
• 1 yellow bell pepper, sliced
• 1 red bell pepper, sliced
• 4 large carrots, grated
• 1 clove garlic, finely chopped
• 1 cup frozen baby peas (petit pois)
• 2 tsp salt
1. Heat the oil in a thick-bottomed casserole pan and fry the onion until the edges begin to turn brown.
2. Turn down the heat; sprinkle in the paprika and curry. Fry for 2 minutes, taking care not to burn the spices.
3. Add the cabbage and bell peppers; after 5 minutes, add the carrot and garlic.
4. Cook uncovered for 10 minutes.
5. When almost cooked, turn off the heat, add the baby peas, season with salt, cover and leave the peas to thaw in the warm pot.
This is a very popular dish on our menu. The chicken pieces are stewed in a berbere paprika paste (so you need to make the berbere first, as well as the niter kebbeh), which adds extra spice to this recipe. When chicken bones come back clean with no traces of gristle, marrow or meat, I consider that evidence that the dish was ‘finger-licking good’.
• 1½ kg chicken, cut into serving pieces
• 3 tbsp fresh lemon juice
• 2 tsp salt
• 2 cups finely chopped onion
• ¼ cup niter kebbeh (recipe on page 91)
• 1½ tbsp finely chopped garlic
• 2 tsp finely chopped fresh ginger
• ½ tsp ground cardamom
• 2 tsp ground nutmeg
• ½ cup berbere (recipe on opposite page)
• 1 tbsp paprika
• ½ cup red wine
• ¾ cup water
1. Dry the chicken pieces with paper towel; rub with lemon juice and salt.
2. Place them in a bowl, cover with a cloth and let rest for 30 minutes.
3. Dry-fry (no oil) the onion over low heat until they are soft and dry.
4. Stir in the niter kebbeh.
5. When it begins to spatter, add the garlic, ginger, cardamom and nutmeg, stirring well after each addition.
6. Mix in the berbere and paprika, and simmer for 2 minutes.
7. Pour in the wine and water, stir and bring to a boil. Cook over moderate heat until the liquid has reduced to a thick sauce.
8. Add the chicken pieces, cover with a lid and cook over moderate heat until the meat is tender and juicy.
9. Serve with plain basmati rice and Ethiopian ayib dip (recipe below).
ETHIOPIAN AYIB
MAKES 500ML
Ayib is a yoghurt and herb dip that is usually served with a hearty stew and injera (flatbread). The first time I tasted ayib served this way was at an Ethiopian restaurant in the United States in 1980. This dip is very popular at The Africa Café because it goes well with the finger foods we serve. My version has cottage cheese and plenty of fresh herbs.
• 250g organic chunky cottage cheese
• 250g organic plain thick yoghurt
• 1 tsp fresh oregano
• 1 tsp fresh basil
• ½ tbsp grated lemon rind
• ½ tbsp grated orange rind
• 1 tsp chopped fresh thyme
• ¼ cup chopped spring onion
• ¼ cup chopped red onion
• ¼ cup chopped fresh coriander
• 1 tsp smoked paprika
• 2 tsp minced garlic
• ¼ tsp milled black pepper
• ½ tsp salt
• 1 tsp honey (or sweetener of choice)
1. Combine all the ingredients in a bowl and mix well.
2. Let it rest for 15 minutes to allow the flavours to develop.
3. Serve with finger foods.
4. Store in the fridge for up to 2 weeks.
MOROCCAN CHICKEN ALMOND PIE
SERVES 8
Long before I thought of opening an African eatery, I cut this recipe out of a magazine and, after adding my own twist, it’s become another favourite at The Africa Café. The idea of sprinkling icing sugar on a chicken pie intrigued me. In Morocco, this pie is traditionally made from fat pigeons poached in a liquid rich with butter. It’s known as pastilla, and they use ouarka pastry, which is fried. Instead, I bake my pie and use phyllo pastry. It’s an intricate dish to make, so set aside ample time – but it’s delicious and worth the effort.
• 1 whole chicken
• 2 tsp salt
• ½ cup butter
• 2 bunches fresh parsley
• 1 large onion, diced
• ¼ tsp saffron, crumbled
• 250g blanched almonds, toasted and ground
• 1½ cups icing sugar
• ½ tsp pepper
• 3 tsp ground cinnamon
• 4 large eggs, lightly beaten
• 7 sheets phyllo pastry
• ¼ cup melted butter, for brushing
1. In a large pot, simmer the chicken in 2 cups of water, with the salt, butter, parsley, onion and saffron for an hour or until the meat is cooked.
2. Remove the chicken from the pot and set aside to cool.
3. Simmer the liquid in the pot to reduce it to half its volume, forming a broth.
4. Remove the skin and bones from the chicken and discard. Then shred the flesh.
5. Add the shredded chicken to the broth and reduce further until all the liquid has boiled away.
6. Preheat the oven to 180°C.
7. In a bowl, combine the almonds and icing sugar. Add half of this mixture to the chicken in the pot.
8. Stir in the pepper, 2 teaspoons of cinnamon and the egg.
9. Line a baking dish with one sheet of phyllo pastry and brush with melted butter.
10. Layer 4 more sheets of phyllo, brushing each one with butter.
11. Sprinkle half the remaining almond-sugar mixture onto the fifth sheet of phyllo. Spoon the chicken mix onto the pastry.
12. Cover the chicken with the remaining 2 sheets of phyllo, brushing each with butter.
13. Bake for 30 minutes.
14. Just before serving, sprinkle the pie with the rest of the almondsugar mix and 1 teaspoon of cinnamon.
TZANEEN ORANGE AND WALNUT CAKE WITH ORANGE SAUCE
SERVES 8 TO 10
This is the most popular dessert in the restaurant. For 27 years I have been begged and bribed to reveal this recipe. It is named after the orange and nut farm in the Tzaneen area on which my mom grew up.
• ½ cup butter
• 1¼ cups sugar
• 2 eggs
• 2 cups cake or all-purpose flour
• 1 tsp bicarbonate of soda
• 1 tsp baking powder
• 1 tsp salt
• 1½ cups buttermilk
• rind of 2 oranges, grated
• ½ cup walnuts, chopped
• 500ml Orange Sauce (recipe on opposite page)
FOR DECORATING (OPTIONAL):
• ¼ cup icing sugar
• 4 tbsp orange juice
• walnuts (or nuts of your choice)
• orange slices
1. Preheat the oven to 160°C. Oil a springform cake tin and line the base with baking paper.
2. Beat the butter and sugar together in a bowl until smooth.
3. Gradually add the eggs and continue to beat until creamy.
4. In a separate bowl, sift the flour with the bicarbonate of soda, baking powder and salt.
5. Add the flour mixture to the cake mixture, alternating with buttermilk, a little at a time.
6. Fold the orange rind and walnuts into the batter.
7. Spoon into the cake tin and level the surface; bake for 45 minutes or until a skewer inserted into the centre of the cake comes out clean.
8. Remove from the oven and, while the cake is still warm, pour over the Orange Sauce.
9. Allow to cool in the tin; remove.
10. For the icing (if using):
Mix just enough orange juice into the icing sugar to make a slightly runny icing. Pour it over the cake and spread with a knife or the back of a spoon.
11. Decorate with nuts and orange slices, and serve.
12. If you’re not icing the cake, serve with vanilla ice cream.
ETHIOPIAN NITER KEBBEH
MAKES 2 CUPS
Niter kebbeh, or spiced butter, is a version of ghee. It is like a readymade spice mix that will inject layers of complex flavours into any dish. For any savoury recipe that calls for butter, you can use niter kebbeh. It’s the base for many Ethiopian recipes, so keep a jar handy in the pantry.
• 1kg butter, cut into small pieces
• 1 onion, coarsely chopped
• 3 tbsp finely chopped garlic
• 4 tbsp chopped fresh ginger
• 1½ tsp ground turmeric
• 1 stick cinnamon
• 1 cardamom pod, slightly crushed with the flat edge of a knife
• 1 clove
• ½ tsp freshly grated nutmeg
1. Heat the butter in a saucepan over moderate heat, turning it about with a spoon to melt it slowly and completely without letting it brown.
2. Increase the heat and bring the butter to a boil. When the surface is completely covered with foam, stir in all remaining ingredients.
3. Reduce the heat to the lowest point and simmer, uncovered and undisturbed, for 45 minutes or until the milk solids on the bottom of the pan are golden brown and the butter on top is transparent.
4. Allow to cool slightly before pouring everything (milk solids and transparent butter) into a jar.
ORANGE SAUCE
MAKES 500ML
This golden citrus sauce is versatile, easy to make and freezes well for future treats. It’s good served hot or cold as a drizzle over ice cream, cakes or desserts.
• juice of 4 oranges
• juice of 2 lemons
• 1 cup honey
1. Heat all the ingredients together in a saucepan. Boil until the sauce thickens. ❖