Plan your trip

GETTING THERE

Gonarezhou can be reached from South Africa in two ways. During dry season, the more adventurous route is through the north of Kruger National Park, accessing first Mozambique at the Pafuri border post and then crossing the Limpopo River (S22° 26.062’ E31° 20.805’), following the ZimMoz border to the Chicualacuala border post (S22° 04.318’ E31° 40.872’). From here, cross into Zim and you’re in Gonarezhou. Make your way north to Boli Village, then turn east to the Chipinda South Gate (S21° 15.835’ E31° 53.456’), which is near the main HQ of the park. During wet season, the only way to get to the park is via the Beitbridge border post. From there, drive north to Ngundu, then east to Chiredzi, then south to Chipinda Pools. If you’re heading to the park from Harare, take the A10 road to Chiredzi Town, then east to the turn-off (S20° 58.984’ E31° 49.113’) that heads south to Chipinda North Gate (S21° 15.903’ E31° 54.401’).

WHEN TO GO

Winter and spring is the dry season (from May to October), when the park is most accessible for self-drivers. During the summer wet season, the Limpopo, Runde and Save Rivers are in flood, so access to certain areas of the park will be restricted (even in July or August, the Save River can be flooded, so aim to travel to Gonarezhou around September or October).

NEED TO KNOW

Independent travel in Gonarezhou is only for fully self-sufficient 4x4ers and experienced bushwhackers (think unfenced campsites with wild animals close by). It takes a long time to get anywhere due to the bad roads. Crossing rivers can be tricky – even if they’re dry, beware of thick sand. There is nowhere to buy food, water or drinks in the park (the nearest town for supplies is Chiredzi), although you can buy firewood at the entrance gates and at Chinguli camp. Needless to say, there is no cellphone reception. It is a malaria and bilharzia area, so take precautions. You will need to pay conservation fees (R78 pp per day), camping fees (R390 pp per night) and vehicle fees (R130 for five days).

STAY HERE

Chipinda Pools, near the park’s northern entrance, has four tented en-suite chalets with kitchens (sleep four to six). There are also nine campsites with thatched gazebos and communal ablutions. Chinguli, near Chilojo Cliffs, has similar camping facilities. There are five sites here; only six people and two vehicles per site. (The third camp, Swimuwini, which I did not visit, is in the far south-west and has nine chalets.) The best campsites are the ‘exclusive-use’ ones in the north-east of the park, on either side of the Runde River – my favourites are Hlaro, Chilojo and Chitove. Maximum 12 people and three vehicles; the only facilities are long-drop toilets. Campsites R650, exclusive campsites R1 171, self-catering chalets from R1 119 for two. zimparks.org Chilo Gorge Lodge, not in the park itself but on the edge of it, is built on a ridge so it has superb views over the Save River and into Gonarezhou. It has self-catering villas (sleeps two) and a family villa (sleeps six) at Nhambo Camp, with a shared kitchen, braai area and plunge pool. The main lodge is more luxurious, with a pool, library and bar. From R1 301 self-catering for two, R3 249 for the family villa, R1 949 pp for full-board luxury room (SADC rates) plus community and park fees from R155 pp. Fly-in safaris are an option. chilogorge.com Gonarezhou Bush Camp is private guide Anthony Kaschula’s mobile camp, on the banks of the Runde River, which looks out onto the Chilojo Cliffs – you can’t ask for a more stunning setting. It’s ideal for those who want a single-group, fully catered experience. It has just five twin tents, with hot bucket showers and bush toilets. R20 783 pp (children R15 621) for four nights minimum, including meals, drinks, transfers and guided activities. gonarezhoubushcamps.com * Prices and conversion correct at time of going to print