Plan your trip
GETTING THERE
We paid R10 615 pp to Paris on Qatar Airways, qatarairways.com. Flying via other European hubs to Strasbourg might be a cost-effective alternative to our Paris-linked itinerary (Strasbourg is closer to Hesse, the starting point of the cruise – just 78km away).
GETTING AROUND
To get to Le Boat’s base in Hesse (450km from Paris), we took the highspeed TGV from Gare du Nord to Sarrebourg (R690 pp) and thence by taxi (R262). From the Boofzheim end-point our R206 taxi, booked when collecting the boat, took us to the inter-city train from Benfeld to Strasbourg (R83 pp). The return TGV from Strasbourg to Paris cost around R965 pp. sncf.com, raileurope.co.za The Arzviller Experience canal cruise runs one way for 106km along the Canal de la Marne au Rhin, past 13 key towns and villages and through 43 locks. Without stops it would take 23 hours of cruising, based on an average speed of 7,5km/h and 13 minutes per lock.
WHEN TO GO
Canal-cruising season is April to October. The weather can be sunny, misty, overcast or rainy in spring, summer and autumn. Early spring, when we went, the canals are quieter. Summer is high season for cruising, but autumn is most popular.
THE BOAT
We picked the ‘8+4’ Salsa 40B with four double cabins, each with separate access to a bathroom either side (to avoid ugly scenes, we allocated the two bathrooms along strict gender lines). There are also four sleeper couches (good for children) in the lounge, a smart galley and sundeck. For the rest, from gas stove to two fridges, linen and towels, we had everything you’d expect to find in a fully stocked motorhome – although you might want to rent a gas braai from Le Boat. Our ‘starter pack’ (R720) included essentials such as bread, olive oil, coffee, milk, sugar, butter, condiments, wine, beer, snacks and water. The boat has interior heating and fans but no air con.
COSTS
Boat hire for the week was R25 182, but we got an early-booking discount. Actual cost was R26 482, including a oneway trip fee of R1 795 and damage waiver of R361 per day. You pay a fuel deposit of R3 450; we ended up using only R2 330 of diesel. Charges at formal moorings (in towns) are about R275 a night, which includes water and electricity. Outside of towns it costs nothing, and you’ll use the onboard water and deep-cycle batteries. Trip rates vary according to size and class of boat, which route you choose and the season. leboat.co.za Supermarket prices: baguette or a kilo of potatoes around R20, R110 for 500g of cheese, R48 for a dozen eggs, R27 for 500ml beer and a passable bottle of red wine costs about R115. We never came close to exceeding our daily food budget of R700 each.
NEED TO KNOW
The ‘crew’ don’t need boat shoes but it can get slippery; tackies are fine. Also pack a lightweight rainjacket. Cycling or gardening gloves are good for avoiding rope burn when mooring. Hats, sunglasses and sunblock are advisable due to the glare off the boat’s white deck. Pack a torch – it can get dark around the moorings. Because space is at a premium on board, keep your luggage compact.
DO THIS
Hire bicycles. We got four city bikes from Le Boat at R679 each for a week. They proved invaluable for grocery shopping and general leg-stretching. In Saverne the Château des Rohan is the ‘poor man’s Versailles’ (entry R45 pp) and the rose garden, Le Roseraie, created in 1898 is equally lovely (R34 pp). In Strasbourg, the Notre-Dame Cathedral has magnificent stainedglass windows and a medieval astronomical clock with automatons (they appear at 12.30pm daily). Entry is R74 pp. Dine next to the river at Au Pont SaintMartin in Strasbourg’s picturesque Petite France/Quartier des Tanneurs district. Regional menu; mains cost around R220. pont-saint-martin.com Eat tarte flambée, aka Alsatian pizza: a crisp, crackly base topped with onions, crème fraîche and lardons (matchsticks of bacon). You can find them everywhere (including at Au Point, from R100). Drink wine. Alsace is a noted wine region, especially for Riesling. Its wine route is one of the oldest in France, and runs south from west of Strasbourg for 170km (parallel to the final Grand Ried section of the canal cruise but about 20km ‘inland’). alsace-wine-route.com *Prices and conversions correct at time of going to print