Plan your trip
GETTING THERE
Standard tours start in either Solitaire or Lüderitz. The easiest route from Joburg is on the N14 to Upington via Ventersdorp, Vryburg and Kuruman. It takes about eight hours, so spend the night. From Upington, take the N10 to Ariamsvlei border post – you’ll need to pay N$260 road usage fee (bring cash, payable in rands). Keep the receipt in a safe place, as you will be asked to present it if you’re stopped at a roadblock. From Ariamsvlei take the B3 to Grünau, then the C12 to Seeheim and Goageb. If you’re doing the tour from Solitaire, turn right onto the C14 at Goageb and continue north for about 400km. If you’re starting from Lüderitz take the B4 from Goageb to the coast. Tours end in Walvis Bay. From there, take the C14 east, then the C26 and C24 to Rehoboth, then the B1 to Grunau and B3 home.
THE TOUR
We did a custom tour (available for groups with 10 vehicles or more) that started at Betta Campsite, halfway between Lüderitz and Solitaire. The ‘Faces of the Namib’ is the flagship, six-day trip (pictured on map) that starts from Solitaire and traverses the Namib Desert from east to west, as well as south to north, so you experience a lot of variety. The ‘Lüderitz to Walvis Bay’ tour is one day longer, 100km further, and follows a route that is predominantly along or very near the coast. Both tours each cost R10 950 per adult, with reduced rates for children. There are also variations of the ‘Faces’ tour with two-, threeor four-night options, if you are limited by time constraints. For the tour, you need a 4x4 with high and low range gear functions and good ground clearance. If you don’t have a 4x4, you can hire one through
Live the Journey from R3 300 a day, including camping kit for two people. livethejourney.co.za
WHAT’S INCLUDED
Concession fees and levies, trained guides, a radio, dinner every evening and some communal camping facilities like a braai area, a chemical toilet and a shower (you need to supply your own water for the shower though). what to pack Take enough fuel to cover about 800km. The heavy sand conditions mean you can only do about 4km per litre. On our tour, we did a total of 640km and used about 170 litres of fuel. Every car also needs a spade and tyre pressure gauge, and must be fitted with points where you can attach a tow rope, both in front and at the rear. No trailers are allowed. Each vehicle needs to take two bags of firewood and 60 litres of water for general personal use, like showers and washing up (20 litres will be used by the communal kitchen). I’d recommend taking a ground sheet, as you need a place to put baggage and bedding while pitching/breaking camp or repacking vehicles. A pop-up or rooftop tent will make camping easier as every night is spent in a different location.
NEED TO KNOW
You don’t need experience of dune driving to do this tour. While some previous experience is recommended, German visitors in our group managed to do the trip without ever having driven on dunes before. The guides are that good. Having medical insurance is essential. Transportation to a hospital will probably require an airlift, so make sure you’re covered for this. The Namibian dollar and SA rand have the same value (R1 = N$1), and payment in rands is accepted. Being close to the coast, the Namib is a surprisingly cool desert and sea breezes keep temperatures down. You are more likely to feel too chilly than too hot in the mornings and evenings, so take warm clothes. Your vehicle’s air conditioning should keep you comfortable during the day, but you will need sun protection. It gets pretty windy in July and August, but when I went in March the weather was perfect and I could sleep outside.
STAY HERE
Libby’s Lodge in Upington is a lovely B&B set in a garden. It won’t break the bank and has off-street parking for bigger vehicles with rooftop accessories. B&B from R770 for two sharing. safarinow.com
Kairos Cottage in Lüderitz is a great place to sped the night if you’re doing the ‘Lüderitz to Walvis Bay’ tour. B&B from R750 for two sharing. kairoscottage.com
While here, visit the nearby old diamond-mining town of Kolmanskop (from R85 pp) and eat local oysters at Diaz Coffee Shop (R10 each). Klein-Aus Vista in Aus is nestled among mountains between Lüderitz and Keetmanshoop. There are accommodation options for every budget – campsites (each under a big camel thorn tree), B&B cottages close to a pool and self-catering chalets with endless views. Camping is R130 pp, B&B is from R1 090 pp and self-catering (which also includes breakfast) is from R1 485 pp. It’s part of the Gondwana Collection so if you get a SA membership card (R200, valid for five years) you qualify for 40 percent discount (excluding camping). klein-aus-vista.com
The Delight in Swakopmund is the perfect treat after six days in the desert. It has colourful decor, free Wi-Fi and is centrally situated in town, making it a perfect base for exploration. It’s also part of the Gondwana Collection so you can get the discount with the membership card. B&B from R1 069 pp. gondwana-collection.com
*Prices correct at time of going to print