Plan your trip

GETTING THERE

The coastal part of this route involved two parks: Skeleton Coast National Park and Dorob National Park. Arriving from the north, take the C40 from Kamanjab via Palmwag to join the C39 or, from further south, the C39 through Khorixas. Enter the Skeleton Coast Park through the Springbokwasser Gate (it opens at 7.30am and closes at 6pm). A transit permit costs R60 pp and R20 a vehicle. At the T-junction turn left onto the C34 down the coast. It’s a good road, given where it is, but be mindful of unexpected sand flows. At the Ugab River you leave the park through a gate and enter Dorob Park, which has an excellent salt road. The route inland to Spitzkoppe is either along the D1918 dirt road from Henties Bay or the tar B2 from Swakopmund. The turn-off to Spitzkoppe is at Usakos.

WHEN TO GO

Because of heat, especially inland, it’s advisable to travel in these areas only in winter. The days may be hot but the nights can get pretty cold, so take clothing for both possibilities.

NEED TO KNOW

Namibian roads are good but make sure you have a reliable vehicle, preferably a 4x4, and drive in convoy. A breakdown on the Skeleton Coast could be life-threatening (there is no cellphone contact). Wind on the coast is a constant companion and can sometimes whip up sudden sandstorms. The roads are straight, luring you to speed, but they can be corrugated and sand ridges blown across the road can form dangerous ramps. If you hit one at speed do not turn your wheel – keep it straight and hold tight! The final section of road to Spitzkoppe is extremely corrugated and has blind rises, so drive carefully.

STAY HERE

Hoada Campsite west of Kamanjab is beautifully situated and extremely well appointed, with hot water, a pool, sunset deck and atmospheric sites among giant granite boulders. The turn-off from the C40 is well marked. Campsites cost R190 pp, luxury tents R550 (sleep two). grootberg.com/ hoada-campsite Palmwag Campsite is connected to Palmwag Lodge, further west of Hoada where the C43 joins the C40. It’s well tended and you can stroll round to the lodge for sundowners or a meal. Note: you can take meat and milk into Palmwag but it will be confiscated on the way out at the foot-and-mouth checkpoint. Camping R205 pp, lodge rooms R1 745 pp sharing DBB. palmwaglodge.com St Nowhere Spa & Campsite is just outside the Skeleton Coast Park south gate. It’s a fishing camp with prefab cottages and campsites, of which some have wind protection and their own shower and kitchen with hot water. The ‘spa’ is a hole filled with extraordinarily buoyant salt water. Camping from R350 for five, R70 pp extra. Cottages from R600 for four, R150 pp extra. +264-81-252-9422. Alte Brücke Holiday Resort, almost on the beach in Swakopmund, has lawned campsites, each with their own bathroom, washing-up area and power point. It has a great restaurant too. From R380 for two to R780 for six people maximum. Four-bed chalet from R515 pp sharing B&B. altebrucke.com Spitzkoppe Campsites are clustered against atmospheric and mysterious granite boulders. There are long-drop toilets at each site and hot showers at reception. It costs R165 pp. spitzkoppe.com Elisenheim is a guest farm 15km north of Windhoek. It has grassed campsites under shady trees, plus a pool. Camping R110 pp, B&B room R400 pp sharing. natron.net/tour/elisenheim *Prices correct at time of going to print