Plan your trip

GETTING THERE

We went with Pisces Divers, a scuba operator located in Simon’s Town on Cape Town’s Peninsula. It’s about 40 minutes’ drive from the city centre via the M3. piscesdivers.co.za

WHEN TO GO

Pisces Divers runs pelagic safaris between November and June. The water is always warm but the summer months tend to offer slightly flatter seas and warmer surface conditions.

NEED TO KNOW

It’s an early start and a tiring day, physically and emotionally, so be sure to get to bed early the night before. Depending on how long you have to wait for the sharks to arrive – usually about an hour, but sometimes longer – you can expect to be back in harbour in the early afternoon. If you’re planning to dive you’ll need a basic scuba qualification – the conditions are very easy and unchallenging – but if you don’t dive, you will have a fulfilling time snorkelling on the surface. Freedivers are welcome; indeed, conditions are ideal for freediving. This is a no-contact dive, but should a blue happen to bump you as it swims by, you’ll find it to be surprisingly velvety and sensual and receptive to your touch.

WHAT TO BRING

A towel to dry off and a warm top for the early morning and the ride back. Don’t forget sunblock and a floppy hat – the sun out at sea finds another level of burn – plus seasickness tablets if you’re susceptible.

THE SHARK DIVE

A Pelagic Shark Dive costs R2 500 pp (the rate is the same for snorkelling). All gear and wetsuits are supplied by Pisces Divers, are in good condition and included in the cost. Lunch is provided but bring your own snacks and treats, especially if you are a little nervous: extra sugar is comforting and is good for keeping your nerve up. One of the highlights of the trip is passing Cape Point at sunrise. It’s a uniquely beautiful view from the water, with its two lighthouses and its sheer cliffs lit gold. Keep your eyes peeled for other marine life: dolphins, seals, whales, penguins, pelagic seabirds, even turtles and the pod of orcas that has taken up residency in False Bay in recent years. (The population of sevengill cowsharks at Miller’s Point near Simon’s Town has been devastated in recent years by the orcas neatly and surgically removing their oil-rich livers.) piscesdivers.co.za

STAY HERE

Smitswinkel Tented Camp is in Table Mountain National Park and is an affordable, attractive option. It’s close to Cape Point and a short drive from Simon’s Town. From R670 per tent (sleeps two). sanparks.org