Plan your trip

GETTING THERE

We flew from Cape Town to Mumbai. Ethiopian Airlines flights start at R6 500 return ( ethiopianairlines.com) and Emirates from R7 500 ( emirates. com). From Mumbai we flew to Kochi with Jet Airways for R2 700 ( jetairways.com), then travelled by car (and boat on the backwaters). We had a designated driver, which is highly recommended.

WHEN TO GO

The best time for travelling in the south is November: it’s cooler and the post-monsoon landscape is lush. We travelled in April and May when the heat and humidity peak.

NEED TO KNOW

An e-visa application is completed before departure and the free visa issued on arrival in India. The exchange rate is favourable for South Africans – about 5 rupees to a rand. There are strict controls on purchasing alcohol so ask a local to help.

STAY HERE

Nelpura Heritage Homestay in Alleppey has a 140-year-old, traditional Keralan-style wooden structure in the garden, where guests stay. From R1 425 for a double room, full board. nelpura.com Vanilla County in Vagamon is a heritage family home that reflects the hill-plantation life. Double room from R1 300, plus R90 pp for breakfast, R163 pp for lunch or dinner. vanillacounty.in Emerald Isle Heritage Villa, a 150-year-old property in Alleppey run by brothers Vinod and Vijo Job, has more of a guesthouse feel. Double room from R1 160 B&B, lunch or dinner R80 pp. emeraldislekerala.com The Francis Residence is a homestay at Fort Kochi with warm hosts Francis and Rosy KP. It is meticulously kept and rooms are within the family home; we visited but didn’t stay here. Double room from R1 080 B&B, lunch or dinner from R305 pp. francisresidence.com

DO THIS

Homestays have guidebooks on what to do in the area, and their own insider info. Nelpura also offered bicycles and a birdwatcher’s kit. Explore nearby villages and stop for tea and snacks. Go for a boat ride on the backwaters. Do a cooking class with your host.

EAT HERE

You will be well fed at the homestays. Know that hosts often lower spice levels for the tourist palate – we asked them to cook for us as if we were Keralan. To experience the full spectrum of local food and avoid repetition, chat to hosts about their specialities. *Prices and conversions correct at time of going to print