‘THE BOAT ITINERARY WILL ALWAYS DEPEND ON TIDES, WIND AND OTHER WEATHER’

‘I COME BACK ASHORE FOR A FEAST OF FRESH SEAFOOD … PREPARED ON THE DHOW’

Dhows are slow, but this mode of transport speaks to Mozambique’s general seaside pace and I secretly hope it’ll give me more time to spot these elusive creatures. The dugong population in the greater Bazaruto region is considered to be the last viable population in the Western Indian Ocean. Alarmingly, on the latest aerial survey conducted last year, the research team spotted just eight dugongs (including a calf), along with 99 turtles, 21 sharks, 49 dolphins, 65 rays and 309 fishing boats. With just three days aboard a dhow, my chances of seeing them are slim. The boat itinerary will always depend on tides, wind and other weather, but on our first day we set sail for the closest island, Magaruque. We have to wait for the right tide in order to snorkel without being swept away on the ‘Magaruque Express’, so first we walk around the island, taking in the coastal dunes and radiant plants, keeping our eyes peeled for pretty sea-urchin shells swept up by the waves. We also see a local fisherman trying his luck from the exposed low-tide reef. I join the fish for a splash in the sea and come back ashore for a feast of fresh seafood, sweet mango slices, salad, bread and warm potato salad – all prepared on the dhow. Sadly, the snorkelling afterwards isn’t as impressive, due to poor visibility. But the ocean

current sweeps me gently along and despite the weather I still see lots of reef fish and relish my time immersed in the warm water. Back on board, there’s coffee and popcorn for our return trip to the campsite on the mainland. Sailaway is a 20-year-old operation with an experienced crew, and day two is another exceptional one. The waters change from a Mediterranean azure to midnight blue and back again, then to gemstone translucency on our way to Benguerra Island. We have the beach completely to ourselves and snorkel at leisure around a small rocky bay. It’s shallow but teeming with life. There’s a small eel waving to me in the water; a lion fish wafting to and fro, wondering whether to exit its small cove; tiny chocolate dippers and plenty more colourful life suspended everywhere. With all this marine magic, I struggle to leave the water but the midday sun forces me back to land. Today’s lunch is served on the dhow and, thankfully, beneath a cloth canvas. The majority of our days are spent lazing on the benches of the dhow, travelling between the islands. It takes at least an hour and a half from the mainland for each excursion, but this is the beauty of such a trip. I’m forced to chill out and watch the waves for any turtle heads that might peak out or, luck willing, the flick of a dugong’s mermaid tail. Munching popcorn post-snorkel again on our way back to camp, I think about tomorrow’s trip to Bazaruto Island. There’s the dunes of Ponta Dundo to clamber up, views to be soaked in and more snorkelling to be done on the famous Two Mile Reef. But with the gentle waves slapping the sides of our wooden boat and the winds gently filling the sail, I’m really in no rush at all.

ABOVE, FROM LEFT Alfredo Boane rustles up some coffee for after our snorkel; once on the islands, you can do as little or as much as you like.

ABOVE Each morning we’d wade out to the waiting dhow with our towels and cameras. LEFT A trip from the mainland to the islands takes at least an hour and a half by sail power.