5. BALULE SATELLITE CAMP

CLOSEST GATE Phalaborwa SITES 15 BEST FEATURE Stargazing SPECIAL SIGHTING Pel’s fishing owl

Situated almost smack in the middle of Kruger, this is one of the smallest camps in the park (the other is Malelane in the south). Most of the campsites (except for three) are set beside the boundary fence, with a green indigenous garden and lawns below Natal mahogany trees in the middle of the camp. There’s no electricity here, but there is phone signal and the kitchen and bathroom facilities run on gas. The sites are spacious, and elephants and hyenas often patrol the low fence. It’s a far more open campsite (this also means less shade in places, though) so it’s perfect for stargazing. Lions and leopards are regularly seen on game drives in the area, and I was lucky enough to see two cheetahs in the nearby Olifants River on a drive north to Letaba. (An interesting aside, Balule was the only place where people of colour could overnight during the apartheid years.) DO THIS Nearby Olifants rest camp offers guided river walks (R300 pp) – a great way to try spot the elusive Pel’s fishing owl. PLUS The bigger Letaba rest camp, with 60 campsites, is also wonderful if you’re one for camping with facilities like a shop and restaurant. There’s also the unbeatable river views, plenty of space to walk if you’re feeling cooped up after long drives, and I love all the wildlife in camp, such as the elegant bushbuck that roam the grounds. It’s great in summer, with a pool and plenty of shade. The stands on the fence close to the Fish Eagle guest house are best for quiet and privacy.