Plan your trip
GETTING THERE
Many airlines fly from Joburg to Saigon/Ho Chi Minh City. In May, Qatar Airways has return flights, with a stopover in Doha, from R7 869. qatarairways.com
VISAS
SA passport holders require a visa, obtained before you travel. I used vietnam-visa.com and received my visa approval letter within 24 hours. It cost $21 (R244) to apply, and a onemonth single-entry visa cost $25 (R290), to be paid on arrival. Note: you must pay this in US dollars cash.
NEED TO KNOW
In tourist spots you’ll be able to get by with English – Vietnamese is a difficult language to grasp. With thousands of scooters on the streets, self-driving is daunting; rather catch a taxi. They’re affordable and run on meters. If you want to cross Vietnam (from Saigon to Hanoi), the Reunification Express is an affordable sleeper train that stops en route and offers wonderful views. seat61.com
WHEN TO GO
Temperatures in southern Vietnam (including Saigon) are warm and remain pretty constant: from low- to-mid-20s to low-30s. The dry season is November to March; June and July are the wettest months.
DO THIS
Explore the antiques street. Lê Cōng Kiêu is in District 1. Note that not all antiques are actually old – ‘war memorabilia’ is, most often, reproduced. Stroll through Ben Tanh Market. It’s easy to find as it’s a major landmark in District 1. You can buy clothing, fabrics, shoes, trinkets, army surplus and food. Go to the theatre. Cirque du Soleil’s LA director described the A O Show as ‘most extraordinary’. Tickets from R287. luneproduction.com Take Sophie’s art tour. Not only for art fundis. In four hours you’ll visit a few art museums and, through the development of painting styles and subjects, explore the country’s past. R756 pp. sophiesarttour.com See the city from the back of a Vespa. There are a range of tours that’ll take you to the main attractions (and secret ones) around the city. From R870 pp for four hours. vespaadventures.com Visit the War Remnants Museum. Formerly known as the Museum of Chinese and American War Crimes, the displays show the effect of war on ordinary people. Entry R20. warremnantsmuseum.com
STAY HERE
Little Saigon Boutique Hotel is affordable, clean and friendly, and in a superb location in the central city. From R430 per double room. littlesaigon.com.vn Ma Maison is a homely Frenchstyle guest house 20 minutes’ drive from the city centre. It’s a lovely choice if you want authenticity. From R756 per double room B&B. mamaison.vn Le Méridien is a luxury hotel filled with local art, on the riverfront in central Saigon. From R1 978 for a double room B&B. lemeridiensaigon.com
EAT HERE
‘Secret cafes’ are hidden and often have no signs (which is the point). Try googling ‘hidden cafe in HCMC’. Or if you don’t have time to search for them, try one of the Công Càphê outlets, a small chain of coffee shops fitted out with Viet Cong memorabilia. congcaphe.com Wrap & Roll is a chain that takes the guesswork out of ordering (there’s a menu in English). Meals from R35. wrap-roll.com The Refinery is a popular French-style bistro in an old opium factory, close to the cathedral. Good food and a relaxed vibe. Main courses from R85. therefinerysaigon.com *Prices and conversions correct at time of going to print