Plan your trip
GETTING THERE
I flew Emirates from Cape Town via Dubai courtesy of Airbnb. Flights from R13 000 return. travelstart.co.za
NEED TO KNOW
South African passport holders need a visa (R2 005). ais.usvisainfo.com. Don’t be tempted to buy airtime and data at the airport mobile shop (as recommended by guidebooks). I got a much better deal at T-Mobile (R760) which gave me more than enough for my eight-day stay. Tipping is from 15 – 20% in restaurants.
STAY HERE
San Francisco is expensive but you can find accommodation that won’t bankrupt you. 735 Geary Street was a clean homely apartment in a Victorian building in the heart of the city. The west part of Geary Street was gritty but I felt safe wandering around. Union Square, the hub of the city, is a couple of blocks away – about a 10-minute walk. R1 255 pp sharing. airbnb.com/rooms/3402610 728 Clayton Street is an elegant apartment in suburban Cole Valley, near Haight Street in Haight-Ashbury and a short walk from Golden Gate Park. I could have stayed here for a month. From R3 733 (sleeps six). airbnb.com/rooms/3133266 The Green Tortoise Hostel has existed since 1974 and its laidback atmosphere hasn’t changed. Don’t be put off by its boast of being ‘#No1PartyHostel’. It’s possible to find a quiet room in this sprawling, once-grand building. Close to City Lights Bookstore and Beat-era hangout, Vesuvio Cafe. From R625 pp sharing B&B. greentortoisesf.com
EAT HERE
Bistro Boudin at Fisherman’s Wharf serves traditional clam chowder in a sourdough breadbowl for R160 (small). 160 Jefferson Street Zazie in Cole Valley is very popular with locals – the Omelette du Jour (R225) which included goat’s cheese and fresh asparagus was memorable, and the coffee refill free. 941 Cole Street Bartlett Hall was inviting with its wood-burning fire, leather and soft lighting. Filled with locals, it’s a three-minute walk from Union Square. I would return for The Bartlett Burger (R225). 242 O’Farrell Street
DO THIS
Visit the Golden Gate Fortune Cookie factory in Chinatown. It opened in 1962 and it’s the original site where the first one was invented (R154 for 12). You’ll be offered warm pieces of cookie to nibble. Take a wander around this bustling Chinese community – the largest outside Asia. 56 Ross Alley Walk from Union Square to Fort Mason via Market Street and Fisherman’s Wharf. About a two-hour stroll (10km), it takes you through the city and along the seafront. Go early – the seafront is packed on weekends. Ride the cable cars. You can’t leave San Fran without doing this. Take the Powell/Hyde line and hop off at Lombard Street to watch cars navigate the famous wiggly street. Powell Street, sfcablecar.com Visit the Painted Ladies. They are on the edge of Alamo Square – views of the city are excellent. There’s a public loo here – hard to find in San Fran! Steiner Street Tour Alcatraz. I was spellbound by a historian giving her talk about this famous island prison. Set aside a day to get the full benefit. R566 pp, which includes your return trip on the ferry. alcatrazislandtickets.com Go to a game. San Francisco Giants are a professional baseball franchise. Sadly, its team wasn’t playing while I was there. It’s a great way to experience the American baseball spirit. san-franciscobaseball.tickets-center.com See the ancient redwood trees. I booked an Airbnb Experience (see page 18) so that I could go with a local. Greg Garcia collected me and another guest from Sausalito, and from there we drove to Mill Valley to start our easy, three-hour hike. R702 pp. airbnb.com/experiences/61714 The ferry to Sausalito (R145 one way, goldengateferry.org) departs from the Ferry Building. Get there early, to browse the impressive food shops in the Marketplace. Cross iconic Golden Gate Bridge. I walked it (you can also cycle) from the north side into the city. It took about half an hour with stops to cross.