Plan Your Trip

GETTING THERE

AirLink flies from Joburg to Maun (from R6 500 return, flyairlink.com). Mack Air transfers visitors to Khwai Private Reserve (about R5 000 return, mackair.co.bw). Driving from Maun to Pangolin Khwai Camp takes three hours – ask locals which roads might be closed due to flooding.

NEED TO KNOW

Pangolin Photo Safaris can supply photographic gear: Sigma 100-400mm lenses, Canon 80Ds cameras and memory cards. If you have your own, bring a wide-angle lens for landscapes (16-35mm) and a telephoto for wildlife.

STAY HERE

Pangolin Khwai Camp Well-known for houseboatbased photo safaris in Chobe, Pangolin has recently refurbished this permanent camp with seven Meru-style tents. The camp is set up for photographers, with an editing table overlooking the view and multiple plug-points for easy laptop connection and battery charging. Included in your stay are daily game drives assisted by the resident photographer; for those staying three nights or more, complimentary activities include the elephant hide and a mokoro trip. From R5 900 pp sharing per day full board. Ask about last-minute specials. pangolinkhwaicamp.com.

Hyena Pan Camp Stylish and welcoming, this is one of the more affordable alternatives for those wishing to stay in Khwai Private Reserve but not go on a photo safari. Set around a beautifully reflective pan, the lodge has eight private tents, all looking out over the still waters. It’s close to the elephant hide; that said, at Hyena Pan the ellies come to you – at sunset, herds arrive to drink from the freshwater outlets installed a few metres from the deck. You’ll be sharing sundowners almost within arm’s reach of each other. From R2 300 pp sharing full board, including a daily game drive. Two sister properties on the reserve are divinely luxurious – Sable Alley and Skybeds, both from R3 300 pp sharing. natural selection. travel

DO THIS

Visit the elephant hide. A not-to-be-missed experience and, contrary to what my account might imply, quite safe. The hide is booked by one group for two to three hours, allowing ample time to photograph the ellies up close and appreciate being in their company.

Float in a mokoro. Being gently poled along means you can photograph reed frogs and, if you’re quick (I wasn’t), capture lechwe as they jump across the channels. It’s a seasonal activity, generally June to October, water levels permitting.