Plan your trip
GETTING THERE
Alitalia flies from Joburg to Milan with a stopover in Rome (from R11 400 pp, alitalia.com). The taxi to Lake Como (which can be pre-booked, milanomalpensaairport.com) takes up to 90 minutes and costs around R1 450 (€90). Or catch a train from the airport for R160 pp (€10) to the city of Como, and take a taxi or boat from there. See welcomepickups.com for info.
WHEN TO GO
Any time between March and November is good; sunshine (and crowds) are guaranteed in July and August.
NEED TO KNOW
Ferries connect Varenna, Bellagio, Menaggio and Cadenabbia. Single trips cost R74 pp (€4,60); a one-day pass costs R240 (€15), a six-day pass is R725 (€45). navigazionelaghi.it Our bus fare from our hotel in Cadenabbia to Menaggio cost around R20 one way. There are plenty of outdoor activities that don’t cost a cent. The local tourism offices (visitcomo.eu) provide detailed maps of hiking routes, while swimming spots can be found all along the lake. (Some hotels have private beaches but for the most part the shoreline is open to anyone.) Always check prices before ordering food or you’ll probably be overcharged.
STAY HERE
Lake Como offers every kind of accommodation, including camping and Airbnb stays. Hotel Britannia Excelsior is a three-star option in Cadenabbia, converted from a 19th-century inn and 50 metres from the ferry stop. It has a resort vibe, with two pools, restaurants and bars. Standard room from R1 770 for two (€110); with a lake view R1 930 for two (€120). hotelbritanniacadenabbia.com Hotel Bazzoni in Tremezzo is very similar – it overlooks the lake and has bars, restaurants and a pool. From R1 935 for two (€120). comovita.com Comovita also has a portfolio of holiday-home rentals. From R1 200 for two (€90).
DO THIS
Explore the three iconic lake towns. Also known as the ‘golden triangle’, Bellagio, Menaggio and Varenna are 10 to 15 minutes apart via ferry. bellagiolakecomo.com, discovercomo.com
Visit a few famous villas and gardens. Allow at least two hours for the full experience. Villa Carlotta is near Tremezzo (villacarlotta.it); Villa del Balbianello is on the Lavedo peninsula near Lenno; Villa Monastero is south of Varenna and visiting just the botanical garden is cheaper (villamonastero.eu). Entry fees are usually R160 pp (€10).
Walk the Greenway. This wellmarked, 10km lakeside route on the western shore is a fantastic way to explore local hamlets, villages and towns (it passes through seven). It takes up to four hours to walk the whole trail, but there are boat and bus stops if you want to opt out. greenwaylagodicomo.com
See George Clooney’s house. Head south to the small town of Laglio and look out for Villa L’Oleandra, which appeared in Ocean’s Twelve.
Learn about silk. For the history of silk production, the Silk Museum (Museo Seta Como) is in the city of Como. Entry R160 pp (€10). Closed on Mondays. museosetacomo.com
EAT HERE
Every town has several gelaterias. The average price for two scoops is R32 (€2).
N26 is at the Hotel Bazzoni in Tremezzo. It has terrace seating overlooking the lake and does classic Italian cuisine (the chef was born in Como). Dishes average around R190 (€12). n26tremezzo.com
Pizzeria Lugano in Menaggio is a local hang-out tucked away in an alley (Via Como). The delicious thin-crust, wood-fired pizzas cost around R113 (€7). Note that it’s open for lunch until 2.30pm, then again from 6.30 to 10.30pm.
Le Specialità Lariane is a food shop on Via Lavedo in Lenno. The lake fishermen deliver their catch here, to be smoked, salted and marinated to perfection.