The new fresh face skin rules

Be your young and glowy self for longer with these dis­cov­er­ies.

Glamour (South Africa) - - Contents -

Ra­di­ant rules

Up your choles­terol

It may not be the sex­i­est of anti-ag­ing in­gre­di­ents, but der­ma­tol­o­gists are re­al­is­ing that choles­terol – a com­po­nent of the ma­te­rial hold­ing our skin cells to­gether – is one of the most im­por­tant in­gre­di­ents to look for in a mois­turiser (es­pe­cially by age 40, when lev­els can plum­met as much as 40% ). It’s most ef­fec­tive when com­bined with fatty acids and ce­ramides, which also help hold skin cells firmly in place so your skin looks smoother and more ra­di­ant. Find the trio in El­iz­a­beth Ar­den Ceramide Cap­sules Daily Youth Restor­ing Serum (R825). But no one is sug­gest­ing you need to start eat­ing but­ter by the stick: there’s no ev­i­dence that in­gest­ing more choles­terol will do any­thing for the skin, says der­ma­tol­o­gist Dr Jor­dana Her­schthal.

Scale back on ex­fo­li­at­ing

“We’re learn­ing that we have to re­spect the ph of the skin and its healthy bac­te­ria,” says der­ma­tol­o­gist Dr Whit­ney Bowe. “Phys­i­cal ex­fo­lia­tors, like loofahs and gritty scrubs, re­move good bac­te­ria from the skin and throw off its ph. That can trig­ger rosacea or eczema flare-ups and boost en­zymes that de­stroy col­la­gen, and cause wrin­kles and sag­ging over time.”

Yikes. The good news: mild chem­i­cal peels can have the op­po­site ef­fect. “Most peels are acidic and can ben­e­fit the skin by en­cour­ag­ing growth of healthy bac­te­ria,” says Dr Bowe, who likes those with sal­i­cylic, gly­colic or lac­tic acid and sug­gests weekly or twice­weekly use. “Try the peel on a small area, like the jaw. If it only has a mild tin­gling, it’s gen­tle enough.” We like Placecol Gen­tle Ex­fo­li­at­ing Treat­ment (R350).

Pick up the pace

If you want to keep your skin smooth and fresh-look­ing, you need to get your heart rate up. In one study, peo­ple ages 20-86 who ex­er­cised at a high in­ten­sity (run­ning, cy­cling, what­ever you’re into) for four or more hours a week, their skin ap­peared and acted younger. And it’s never too late to re­verse course. Even pre­vi­ously seden­tary 65-86-yearolds who be­gan mod­er­ate aer­o­bic ex­er­cise for 45 min­utes twice a week had a change in their skin – signs of age­ing be­gan to re­verse on a molec­u­lar level af­ter just three months of be­ing ac­tive.

Take your sup­ple­ments

Crash course in pep­tides: they’re amino acid chains that build col­la­gen in the skin. And an eye prod­uct with pep­tides is an ef­fec­tive way to smooth lines and soften crow’s feet. Try one of our favourites En­v­i­ron C-quence Eye Gel (R395).

But now it turns out that you can – and prob­a­bly should – be eat­ing pep­tides, too. They’re one of the few in­gre­di­ents that work both top­i­cally and in­ter­nally. In a study in the Skin Phar­ma­col­ogy and Phys­i­ol­ogy jour­nal, women who popped a 2 500mg Verisol col­la­gen pep­tide sup­ple­ment (you can buy them at health food stores) daily for eight weeks had a 20% re­duc­tion in eye-wrin­kle vol­ume, a 65% in­crease of pro­col­la­gen type 1, and an 18% in­crease in elastin. And all that is a fancy way of say­ing: no­tice­ably smoother­look­ing skin around the eyes.

Mix it up

There’s no rule that says you have to use one prod­uct on your en­tire face. In fact, the new think­ing is that you shouldn’t. “I have pa­tients who use retinoids only on their cheeks and fore­head and pre­scrip­tion creams on their chin, where they’re prone to rosacea,” says der­ma­tol­o­gist Dr Dendy En­gel­man. She rec­om­mends: “Thick creams around the eye area and lips, and sal­i­cylic or gly­colic acid on the T-zone to min­imise break­outs.” TRY Sk­inceu­ti­cals Blem­ish + Age So­lu­tion (R1 325). Then add anti-red­ness prod­ucts across the nose, cheeks and chin to soothe flush­ing. We like Avène Eau Ther­male Red­nessRelief Mois­tur­is­ing Pro­tect­ing Cream (R199.95).

Slather on SPF

It may not be a new thing but it’s an even bet­ter anti-ager than we thought. A study found that when peo­ple ap­plied a mois­turiser with SPF30 daily for a year with­out any other anti-ag­ing prod­ucts (in other words: zero, nada, noth­ing else), they ended up with clin­i­cally mea­sured im­prove­ment in mot­tled skin tone (by 52%), tex­ture (by 40%) and clar­ity (by 41%). It proves that sun­screen doesn’t just pre­vent ag­ing; it may ac­tu­ally re­verse it!

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