The scent of scandal
What went down at the VIP party for designer Jean Paul Gaultier’s hot new scent? Beauty director Michelle Brownlee Smith jetted to Paris to attend the launch of the new fragrance, Scandal.
By Michelle Brownlee Smith
scandal, from the Greek word skandalon means ‘a cause of moral stumbling’. But for French designer Jean Paul Gaultier, this word is a far more enticing prospect – a way to upend social norms, with not a careless stumble in sight. Consider his 1992 fashion show in which he walked Madonna down the runway to have her whip off her masculine jacket to reveal a totally breast-baring, tailored dress when she reached the end.
Coco Chanel had the LBD, Yves Saint Laurent claimed the tuxedo for women and Sonia Rykiel glammed up knits. But if there is one item that expresses Jean Paul’s blend of beauty, chic, wit, sexuality and powerful femininity, it has to be the corset.
The corset is at the centre of his signature style, an ode to the underwear he found so fascinating in his grandmother’s wardrobe.
“Fragrance can be sexier than clothing because our sense of smell is directly linked to emotions.” – Daphné Bugey
He had been no ordinary teen: at 13, he was designing clothes for his gran and mother, and he sent his sketches to several leading designers. At 18, one of those designers – the influential Pierre Cardin – took notice and gave him his first job. By 24, his own label had been established, complete with its first show in Paris and a reputation for sexy, stylish and provocative fashion, from punk-influenced evening gowns to skirts for men – always challenging rules and social ideals.
A classic affair
So when an ivory invitation embossed with the Jean Paul Gaultier coat of arms and ‘Liberté, Egalité’ motto landed on my desk, I was thrilled to discover what the designer had up his beautifully tailored sleeve.
The event? A Paris party to launch his new fragrance – the appropriately named Scandal. (A big deal considering that most of his fragrance launches over the years have been limited-edition versions of the 25-year-old Classique.)
The first question, of course, was what to wear? The dress code was ‘Black suit’, so off I set, ready to fly the SA flag in fitted trousers, a pair of heels and a beaded peplum top by Cape Town’s Galuzzi e Gini.
The evening of 15 June arrived and I was thrilled to be joining editors from around the world as luxurious sedans whisked us off to Hôtel de Béhague, the incredible 18th-century residence of the Romanian ambassador, a location that had been kept secret up until the last minute.
Imposing black doors opened to welcome us into an airy courtyard of graceful arches, gold-leaf finishes and marble columns hung with the designer’s coat of arms.
Waiters in traditional garb proffered champagne, bouquets of gardenia scented the air, and a cellist and violinist added a harmonious touch to the celebration. A buzz rippled through the crowd and there was the pop of camera flashes as Jean Paul stepped onto the red carpet. And it was the man of the moment who led the guests up the winding staircase to a mirrored, gilded hall sparkling with crystal chandeliers.
Europe’s elite, including Spanish dancer Blanca Li, French It-girl Ilona Smet and model Catherine Loewe, mingled over platters of fresh salmon and paté. Dessert was a
wonderful spectacle of orange-sized chocolate balls, melted with hot chocolate sauce to reveal berries and cream inside.
Darker delights
At 10pm, the evening took an unexpected turn, as refinement and elegance were replaced with expressions of the brand’s wild and risqué side: neon signs, flashing lights and dancers in fishnets, leather and, of course, corsets. The thumping beat was irresistible and guests took to the dance floor, while Jean Paul surveyed us from his table, where he was joined by model and face of Scandal, Hungarian Vanessa Axente.
Then things got even hotter, as the cabaret performers launched into Moulin Rouge-style sultry Burlesque sets. The final touch to the naughty night: waiters circulating the courtyard with trays of cigarillos and matchboxes.
Scandal in a bottle
The following morning was my chance to meet perfumer Daphné Bugey. Daphné is the talent behind hits like Kenzo Amour and Jean Paul Gaultier Classique Essence (a flanker to the original). Now tasked with creating a scent that personifies the spirit of luxury, sophistication, playfulness and rebellion, she imagined “a multifaceted woman – strong, free-spirited and daring, a woman whose life goes from responsible days to crazy nightlife.”
It’s an image echoed by the fragrance’s TV ads, in which the gorgeous Vanessa is shown as a government minister who dashes out of a club and into a limo, where two male assistants help her out of her night gear and into a black suit, so that she can step out of the car moments later, to photographers calling out “Madame Minister!”
“I looked for an ingredient that would embody these two sides of a woman,” says Daphné of the new scent. Honey was that note. “It’s sugary, so it’s addictive, but it’s
“Honey is sugary, so it’s addictive, but it’s also complex.” – Daphné Bugey
also complex. When you put your nose to a honey pot, it’s sensual and slightly unsettling, so it’s perfect to tell the story of the Jean Paul Gaultier universe: the excess and the generosity.”
Honey is not new to fragrances but, “it’s also not easy to use. You have to tame its wild side,” says Daphné, who used gardenia to do that. “It’s a white flower that is heady and strong, with fruity, velvety notes. This represents the chic side of the woman. Patchouli was added to get the feeling of the sexy nightlife. Finally, blood orange offers the scent some light – giving it a fresh contrast.” The result is a temptingly sweet scent with a sensual base that’s ideal for day and night – and the modern woman who revels in both.
The the only question now is where one should spritz on a fragrance named Scandal? “Fragrance can be sexier than clothing because our sense of smell is directly linked to emotions and memories,” says Daphné. “So when it comes to Scandal, I suggest this: spritz it onto your wrists as a gift to yourself. Over your hair, so you leave a delicious trail in the air when you move. And then? Well, anywhere on your body. After all, anything is possible!”