5 things you must do There is so much to see and do on this route that it’s worthwhile putting aside a day or two for activities.

EXPLORE CREVICES

After you’ve visited Dead Vlei and you’ve had your fill of dunes and dead trees, you can take a walk through the Sesriem Canyon. It’s only 2 km from the park gate, and it’s an easy hike that’ll keep you busy for two hours.

A GHOST TOWN AT THE SEA

If you’re staying over in Aus you might as well work in an extra day to eat fish and chips in Lüderitz. The well-known ghost town, Kolmanskop, is right before the town and definitely worth a visit. Remember your camera and visit Kolmanskop in the early morning for the best light over and in the abandoned buildings.

FROM A DIFFERENT ANGLE

Klein-Aus Vista, the Tsauchab River Camp, and Mount D’Urban have hiking and mountain bike trails you can take to explore your surroundings. You can go horse riding at Klein-Aus Vista, while at Tsauchab and Mount D’Urban there are 4x4 routes that lead you to beautiful lookout points (with especially spectacular sunsets).

A CASTLE IN THE SAND

On the D826 road between the C14 and the C27 there’s a peculiar building in the middle of the desert: A German castle. Die Duwisib Castle was built in 1908 by Captain Hans Heinrich von Wolf, a German militarist. You can visit the castle, have lunch there, and spend the night in the guesthouse or camp.

ROW YOUR BOAT

There are various operators on both sides of the Orange River that offer guided canoe trips. It’s a unique way to explore the Richtersveld. Your options range between short day tours to longer overnight routes where you camp all along the river. >

feel and smell things and really see everything.” Thorsten grew up here, feet planted firmly on the ground and at one with the Namib earth around him. And it’s that balance between man and nature that he wants to share with guests… but only a handful at a time. Thorsten believes that just like nature has a certain load capacity, a place can also accommodate only so many tourists before the balance is disturbed. “We are a small place, and that’s how it’s going to stay. We want people to experience the wide open spaces and seclusion, things they don’t have at home,” he says. Luckily it looks like the locals in this corner of Namibia won’t easily allow tourists to take over their wide open spaces.

Place of the iconic dune

South Africa has Table Mountain, America has the Grand Canyon, and Australia Uluru – all natural phenomena synonymous with these countries. Namibia has Sossusvlei. Even if you’ve never been here you know exactly what it is: that iconic postcard photo of dead trees in a white salt pan with bright orange dunes in the background. The best time of day to visit Sossusvlei is early morning, because later in the day the desert’s heat hits you. The park’s gate opens at sunrise, but then you still have to drive 60 km to Dead Vlei, a drive that can take an hour. The last 5 km to the pan is only accessible with a 4x4 (there’s also a shuttle service at R150 p.p.) and you have to walk the last kilometre. If you hurry you can reach the pan in the “golden hour” – the hour after sunrise when the light is at its most beautiful. Next to Dead Vlei is the 325 m high dune, Big Daddy. You’re allowed to climb

Sesriem is especially popular during the July holidays, as the desert’s climate is milder during winter, and the area’s likely to be packed to capacity.

it – the view from the top over Dead Vlei is something special. Dune 45 lies next to the tar road on the way to Dead Vlei. Stop and climb it, or go check out the lesser known Hidden Valley. Do keep one very important thing in mind: During the holidays, Sesriem is bursting at the seams. Especially during

the July school holidays you’ll struggle to find a place to stay, and by the time they open in the morning you’ll probably find yourself in a long queue at the Sossusvlei gate. Thankfully visitor numbers start decreasing by end August. If you can’t go at any other time but you still want peace and quiet, book a spot at the Tsauchab River Camp. It’s about 70 km from Sesriem, and you can do a day trip to Sossusvlei and by late afternoon you’ll have your privacy again. There are also hiking trails plus a restaurant with a bar as well as a swimming pool. And you can marvel at owner Johan Steyn’s sculptures, which dot the entire property.

Goodbye for now

From Sesriem the north awaits. Check out Solitaire, head towards the coast to see what’s happening in Swakopmund, and then push through to Windhoek. On the other side of the capital your choices are broad: Kaokoland, Etosha, and the Caprivi. You can of course circle back to Noordoewer and go have a look at the Fish River Canyon and Ai-Ais, or drive home through the Kalahari. And if you have to get home before you have time to visit all these places, save them for next time. Because there will be a next time. >