SOUTHERN KRUGER
The iconic Kruger National Park isn’t your average camping destination – if you want a stand you’ll have to book early.
The Kruger National Park tops many campers’ must-visit destinations list – and not only South African campers. International tourists flock here in their thousands in search of the Big Five. There are 13 campsites to choose from, and these are all decent places to unhitch, even if they are weren’t in one of the most popular game reserves in the world. The campsites differ significantly from one another, but you know what to expect at each one. You can reach all of them with a standard caravan but a kitted-out 4x4 with two roof tents will be equally at home. Aside from the smaller camps like Balule and Tsendze, you’ll find fuel at all the larger campsites. 50 ppm diesel, which at one stage wasn’t available, is now common. The same goes for swimming pools, braais with grids, as well as excellent service at the reception offices. You’ll notice that some of the campsites’ bathrooms aren’t exactly brand new, but they’re always clean. Few campsites in the country can compete with the Kruger’s shops. Whether you’re camping far north in Punda Maria or down south at Berg-enDal, the shops can’t be beat. They’re not all the same size but you won’t be able
to fault the selection: You’ll find anything from magazines and fresh produce to plush toy lions, hard tack and even Kruger fire lighters.
Get there early
The earlier you get to the campsite, the better your chances of staking your claim on a great stand. But that of course depends on what your definition of a great stand is. Where one person prefers a giant shade tree, the other might prefer camping closer to the fence, the bathrooms or a power socket. Or maybe a level stand is your only requirement. Regardless, try to arrive earlier rather than later, because you can’t book a specific stand. SANParks have been doing it like this for years, although this rule has been a bit more flexible lately. It would seem that some of the more sought-after stands next to the fence are no longer intended for the average Joe. Also, don’t come here expecting a stand on manicured lawn. In the Kruger you camp on a bare patch of ground. Have a look at where the taps are located – you’re not always sure if there’s one close to or on your stand and in certain instances you’ll have to walk to the kitchen to fetch water. And remember to pack a blue caravan plug and an extension cord. The Kruger is as close to Utopia as you’ll find, but how are things when the place is bursting at the seams with campers who have travelled here from far and wide? Will you have to sacrifice good service and a clean site? Are people packed in like sardines? We were very lucky and managed to secure one of the last spots in the south a month or so before our visit during the busy December holiday period. And our visit started with a traffic jam in front of the gate. >
SKUKUZA Queue here
If you want to know how popular a campsite is, have a look at how busy it is when circumstances are not ideal for a visit. In the middle of summer, temperatures hover around the 40 °C mark, the summer rains bring lush green bushes, and the risk of malaria in the region is higher. When we visited there was in fact a warning from the National Institute for Communicable Diseases regarding people with malaria symptoms visiting the area. But it’s holiday and few things dampen the spirit when you’re en route to the Kruger. The Kruger gate, the one closest to Skukuza, is not 35 km from Hazyview. A traffic jam in the Kruger is nothing unusual, especially if one of the Big Five
Don’t come here expecting a stand om manicured lawn. In the Kruger you camp on a bare patch of ground. We’re camping for nine nights, and Skukuza is nice and central. You can see a lot of animals at the nearby Sabie River – even wild dogs. Kgotso sleeps in his own tent because the games on his cellphone keep us up!
is parading next to the road. But half a kilometre in front of the gate a long line of cars stand dead still as if a road block could be the reason. Our plans to arrive early to bag one of Skukuza’s better stands seem to have been foiled. An official in her dark green uniform approaches and says that the computers in the office are offline and visitors’ details are captured by hand. Luckily, we booked our accommodation beforehand, and we and the campers in front of us with their Exclusive – complete with a life-sized picture of the Big Five on the back – are given permission to pass the cars in front of us.
Where R5 is king
Skukuza is the Kruger’s capital. Here you’ll find everything you need – from a post office (with pigeonholes) to a full-fledged FNB branch. To the right of the reception office there’s a piece by sculptor Phil Minnaar: three faces that remind you that Paul Kruger isn’t the only person who should be lauded for the existence of the park. On one side of the late statesman is the proud face of Piet Grobler, former minister of lands of the Union of South Africa, and on the other the face of lt.col. James StevensonHamilton, the Kruger’s first manager. There’s usually a queue here too, and it’s unlikely that you’ll reach the counter without a wait. At least you can refresh yourself with some water from an upright water cooler. Against one of the walls there’s a large framed photo of a lion sinking his claws into a buffalo, and on the counter there’s an eagle carved out of wood. The campsite is divided in two and lies on both sides of the road as you drive in. Each side has its own bathroom, scullery and laundry. (When you get your resort map from the receptionist, ask for R5 coins if you intend on using the laundry later. Next time, remember to bring your piggy bank.) >
Monkey business
The people with the Big Five air-brushed on the back of their Exclusive bagged a spot opposite us – the woman has already started cleaning the mesh floor mat under the rally tent. “Hey!” shouts our neighbour while a vervet monkey makes a run for it, loot in hand. Remember: You need to keep everything tightly locked up when you’re camping here. The swimming pool is next to the campsite so it’s not odd to see someone walking past your stand shirtless with a towel draped over his shoulder. Don’t arrive without an electric fan because it can get scorching hot here. Some campers have upgraded and even installed air con in their caravans. The nosecones are open and air con pipes hang like trunks over A-frames. The campers diagonally behind us even have air con in their dome tents! The fires are lit early evening. Opposite us, our neighbour’s fire is going strong. But this fire is purely for ambiance because he’s actually braaiing on the gas skottel next to the fire. Just after 4 am the following morning we’re awakened by the neighbours starting their diesel van. It’s still pitch dark (except for the lights that help you find your way to the toilets). Surprisingly, there’s a lot of action in the campsite this time of the morning: One guy is sitting neatly dressed under his rally tent, working on a laptop. Next to him on the table is a crossword puzzle and a extralarge magnifying glass. The bathrooms are also a hub of activity – it feels like a family gathering. Strangers greet as you walk into the bathroom. Even though it’s busy, you don’t have to wait for a shower. By 9 the campsite is quiet, and the two nice big stands next to the bathrooms are open. Lesson learnt: Arrive earlier at the next campsite.
PRETORIUSKOP Distinction is good enough Pretoriuskop is the oldest of all the Kruger camps and also the farthest down south, if you exclude the satellite camp Malelane. The reception office at the gate feels modest if you compare it to the one at Skukuza, and it’s also a lot quieter. If you look at the noticeboard behind the counter you’ll see that Pretoriuskop’s management isn’t ashamed of their goals and achievements. The feedback from visitors between April and October last year has been written down with a magic marker and includes comments about service at the gate, the campsite itself, and the activities that are on offer – and it’s mostly rated above 80% positive. Opposite the shop is a Wimpy, but it has a completely different vibe to the branches in town. On its stoep are small bungalows styled akin to the campsite. There are four groups of stands next to each other, all more or less next to the fence. You’re not first These days about half of the 20 or so stands next to the fence have permanent tents. These stands have been rezoned, if you will, with an outside company that sub-lets it to visitors who specifically want to overnight here. All the tents have parking for a car next to them – and on the stoep of one there KEEP IT CLEAN. Some of the stands next to the fence have permanent tents. It reduces the options available to campers. The laundry room is in the centre of camp and the washing machines accept R5 coins. is even a gym set. The fence stands shouldn’t be too high on your list because many of them are already taken. Quite a few of the campers in Pretoriuskop are grumpy about these new developments in the Kruger. Nevertheless, it’s a neat campsite with two bathrooms: one near the first stands and the other at the farthest stands. The former has fewer bugs inside because there’s a mesh door. The other one doesn’t even have a door. The laundry is in the middle and also operates with those valuable R5 coins. For dishes you have to walk past the first bathroom. >
We camp at the Kruger every year and remember the good old days when there wasn’t electricity at Skukuza’s campsites. This year it feels less busy in the game reserve than before.
The kitchens in most of the Kruger’s campsites are square buildings without walls – there are, amongst other things, a basin, a few electric two-burner stoves and then, a winner: a instant boiling water dispenser where you can quickly get water for your morning tea.
Animals on your doorstep
Even if you’re not next to the fence, you can still see game. We found a spot underneath a large old sycamore – you’ll be hard pressed to find better than this. Our neighbours’ Off-Trax sums it up perfectly: printed on the caravan are the words “Kani Wagi” (can’t wait). The guinea fowls are tame and run slowly from the one stand to the next – you can snap them from close up. (Don’t get a fright when you zoom in, because their shrivelled heads look like something you’d find on a prehistoric bird. It’s the proverbial pretty from afar but far from pretty.) Not all the monkeys in the camp are up to no good. Some of them simply hang around in the tree next to your stand, like they’re also just relaxing. A young meerkat plays with the ball of a swingball set next to the tent. Across the road a few of his mates are raiding a tent’s kitchen section. The young woman in her camo three-quarter pants shrugs and says: “These animals have probably adopted us...” Outside, a red-chested cuckoo’s calls seem never-ending, and elsewhere you can hear the “krrrrr” of an osprey.
Time to cool down
Pretoriuskop deserves top marks for its pool. It may be far from the stands but the five-minute walk is worth the trouble. It’s built on the side of a rock that extends a few metres above the ground and the water is crystal-clear. There’s a
Pretoriuskop deserves top marks for its swimming pool. It may be far from the stands, but the five-minute walk is totally worth the effort.
splash pool on top of the rock for the little ones, with a stream that runs into the bigger pool. Even when the campsite is packed to the brim and the heat is almost unbearable, the pool is never too full. You feel completely refreshed when you walk back to your stand, and the ice cream you bought at the shop won’t even get a chance to melt in your hands. It’s sunset and time for an early night and wake-up. Seven minutes later than yesterday, at 4:25 am, someone switches on their car. Early-morning game drives remain a fantastic experience and luckily the ablutions are less cramped than those at Skukuza. Berg-en-Dal is next, but then you see something that you really don’t want (or expect) to see in the Kruger or any other park: campers feeding cheese curls to the guinea fowls...
BERG-EN-DAL Second again!
The fence is to the right of the stands, and by this time you’ve made peace with the fact that you won’t snag one of the sought-after spots. The lady in the reception office, however, isn’t fazed about the stands next to the fence. For her it’s more important to warn you about the baboons and monkeys in the campsite. You’d think a full campsite would be a deterrent, but here at Berg-en-Dal the primates reign supreme. While the receptionist gives you a pamphlet with tips on keeping these pests away from your campsite, she emphasises the problem areas: “Please be careful of the animals because they are a huge problem. That counts for campers with tents as well as caravans. Don’t leave any food in the tent. They smell it and will tear the tent to get to it. “Also lower your caravan’s pop-up roof when you’re out and about because they can climb through the canvas section between the roof and the body of the caravan. These guys think the campsite belongs to them...” The pamphlet further warns you to lock your food in your trailer or boot and to never ever confront the animals. Rather leave them alone, even if
they take your food, because they can become aggressive. We drive through the full campsite again and then choose one of the last stands that will satisfy everyone in the car. They are big and level, but we’re holding thumbs that lady luck is on our side. And wouldn’t you know it... underneath one of the biggest shade trees in Berg-en-Dal is one open stand next to the fence. It’s far right as you drive into the campsite. On the other side of the fence, only 40 m away, a herd of elephants come walking past. When you’re this close to them you realise how enormous these beasts really are.
Space for everyone
Even though the campsite is full, the stands are laid out in such a way that you have enough space around you. Again, bring a long extension cord (at least 10 m) because the power sockets and shade trees aren’t always spaced close together.
The variety of animals you see next to the fence is astounding – there’s everything from rhinos to leopards. The pool also deserves high praise.
There are also lights at the sockets but they’re low and slightly hidden. Instead of lighting up the spot at the power socket it shines onto the ground and basically serves no purpose. Bring your flashlight if you want to walk to the bathrooms after sunset. There are three ablution facilities and each of them have facilities for the disabled with basins for dishes at the back. It’s not even half a kilometre from the office to the campsite – you’ll go past the laundry and pool, then find the stands. The washing machines also work with R5 coins and the pool has a few shade trees around it if you want to watch your kids enjoy the water. Again, it’s not cramped and everyone – young and old – gets to splash around and have fun.