How to plan your visit

Now that you know the lay of the land, it’s important to ask yourself why you want to visit the Sossus area. This will help determine how long you should stay, and how many nights’ accommodation you should book. Do you simply want to say you’ve been to Sossusvlei? Well, that’s easy. Book two nights and blitz the day in between: Dune 45 at sunrise, Sesriem Canyon at midday and Dead Vlei in the afternoon. Done. (Do keep in mind that Sesriem is far from other towns, mostly along gravel roads: 300 km from Windhoek and Walvis Bay; 270 km from Mariental and 340 km from Aus. A visit to Sossus therefore makes sense as part of a longer Namibian travel itinerary.) If you’re heading to the Namib for the unique photographic opportunities on offer, you’ll need more time. At least two late afternoons at Dead Vlei will be good, which will also give you time to seek out other spots, like Hidden Vlei, for variety. Everyone wants to take a classic “gemsbok on a red dune” photo, but not everyone is lucky enough to even see a gemsbok at Sossus. Try to go back more than once, and be patient. Photographers should book accommodation for at least three nights. Is Sossus a family destination? For sure! Maybe not for toddlers – the walk to Dead Vlei from the parking area is about a kilometre over hot sand; you’ll be amazed at how this short trudge can tire you out – but if your kids are a rough-and-ready bunch used to camping they’ll be just fine. Time your excursions to

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SWIM AT HAUCHABFONTEIN Ever wanted to take a dip in the desert? The natural rock pools at Hauchabfontein are deep, clear and wonderful to swim in. Cost: R30 per person for day visitors (camping also available). Where? 55 km from Sesriem along the D854. GPS: S24.51599 E16.07523 Contact: 00 264 63 293 433; 00 264 81 241 5178 (Kiewiet)

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make the most of the cooler early mornings and late afternoons and hang out at the lodge pool during the heat of the day. Make sure everyone is wearing a hat, covered in sunscreen and hydrated to the hilt, and you’re guaranteed fun times. With that in mind, a family holiday at Sossus requires a minimum of three nights – this will also give you time for excursions to other attractions in the area (see box). Are you drawn to the Namib by the promise of a solitary desert experience? Is it even possible to find peace and quiet here? In my experience, the bulk of tourists who visit Sossus – those who arrive in tour buses – simply “hit and run”. They tick off Dune 45 and they might go as far as Dead Vlei, but then they hotfoot it back to the bus where the driver is already revving the engine. The kilometre of sand you have to walk to get to Dead Vlei is another significant barrier: Not everyone is fit enough to go the distance. Plus, the desert is big. Sossusvlei itself is a huge open space where you can easily disappear from view behind the toe of a dune. Closer to Sesriem, at Elim Dune, you will often be entirely alone. Yes, it’s easy to spend a week around Sesriem and do something different every day: Take photos at Dead Vlei, climb a dune or just sit and read in the campsite. But the most important thing about a visit to the Namib is… you. Come with the door of your heart slightly ajar, just enough for a bit of red sand to get blown in. You’ll find it there, years later, and it will make you smile. TASTE WINE AT NEURAS Wine in the desert? You’d better believe it. You can taste their wines, have lunch (booking essential) or go on a tour. The farm’s natural springs are amazing – Neuras is a proper oasis. Cost: R185 per person for the guided tour; R285 for the tour, wine tasting and a cheese board. Where? 77 km from Sesriem via the D854 – turn off at the sign. GPS: S24.46211 E16.23687 Contact: 00 264 63 293 417; neuraswines.com

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WALK IN THE MOUNTAINS Many people forget about the Naukluft Mountains section of the Namib-Naukluft park. There’s a campsite and other accommodation available, but you can also just visit for the day. Hike to the rock pools close to the main camp. Cost: Day visitors R60 per adult; free for kids under 16; plus R10 per car. Where? 92 km from Sesriem; turn off the D854. GPS: S24.26511 E16.23903 Contact: 021 422 3761; ctbookings@nwr.com.na