DAY 2: 29 km

Arcos to Portela

The scenery along this part of the route reminded me of the Langkloof behind Plett. I even saw proteas in some gardens. Every farmer seemed to have a small patch of land, a vineyard and a few sheep. I saw lots of people hard at work in the fields. Along the way I explored villages, I stopped at cathedrals and did lots of peoplewatching when I sat down to rest my legs. I also chatted to other pilgrims – everyone had an interesting story to tell. That afternoon I arrived at the guesthouse I had planned to stay at, but it was closed! This might have been because it was May, still early in the Camino season. Most people walk the trails in high summer and autumn, from June to September. I had little other option but to bed down in a hostel ( albergue) in Portela, in a dorm room with nine other people. set off in a drizzle that morning. The weather soon cleared up, but my blister woes remained. Luckily there are lots of pharmacies along the route. I stopped at one to stock up on plasters and pain medication. To take my mind off the blisters, I tried to focus on other things, like the incredible tiling work on many houses and public fountains that I passed. And the gardens – it was spring in Europe and everything seemed to be in full bloom. I crossed antique bridges and stopped to pray in grand old churches. Soon I forgot all about the pain. I spent the night with a family in Ponte de Lima, one of the oldest villages in Portugal dating back to 1125. The accommodation was comfortable and it was interesting to be properly immersed in the local culture.

Ponte de Lima to Tui

In the village of Rubiães I tried to order a typical Portuguese dish called feijoada, a stew of beans with beef and pork. Most people in the bigger towns had been able to understand some English, but here I was just met with blank stares. I had to be creative to get my message across. The effort was worth it: When I finally received my stew, it was delicious. It was my last day in Portugal. I browsed the shops in the border town of Valença and found beautiful filigree jewellery. Later that evening I crossed the bridge over the Minho River to the town of Tui. Hello, Spain!