VAN ZYLSRUS One last classic Kalahari destination

Have coffee at the Samevloeiing waterhole about 5 km from Twee Rivieren before you leave the park. A blackbacked jackal might show up, or an African wildcat. Even if you just see a turtle-dove or two, it’s special to be in a wild place where the animals still have the upper hand. Increase your tyre pressure before you leave the park. Carry on past Kalahari Trails to the junction at Andriesvale. Turn left onto the R31. Before you’ve even changed to fourth gear, you’ll see Ant Koera se Plaaskombuis on the right. Now you’re in for a treat! Koera Steenkamp is a whizz in the kitchen and everything at her veld restaurant is cooked over the fire. Book beforehand if you’d like to have lunch here. ( You have to be at least three people.) While you nibble on a roosterkoek, Koera will cook up delicious dishes in her potjies: venison or mutton, vegetables, samp, rice… Tummies full, drive on to Askham where you can fill your tank and grab a slice of cake at the DiamondT coffee shop at the end of the main road. Van Zylsrus is about 150 km away on a gravel road. It’s a long haul, but don’t give up hope. Soon enough you’ll see the sign: Ontspan dit is Van Zylsrus. Turn left at the stop street and you’ll arrive in this small oasis. The Van Zylsrus Hotel is legendary in these parts. On the walls of the bar you can read framed articles about the history of the town, its people, its rugby teams and the story of Attie and Dina Lubbe, who started the Gemsbok Hotel in the 1960s. There will usually be groups of hunters and locals hanging out in the bar. Take a look at the Hall of Fame, where visitors can leave messages on bronze plaques. A certain Giel Coetzee opted for “Vredenburg se Bul”, Ansa and Phillip van der Merwe chose “Lekker my lam, lekker!” and Riaan and Gys summed up their stay with these words: “Nie hier vir ’n lang tyd, hier vir ’n goeie tyd”. Owners Elbie and Petro Jonker have done a great job of creating a welcoming atmosphere. Order springbok fillet with a creamy sauce, green beans, mash and sweet potato for dinner (R130), have a beer with the hunters and enjoy the hospitality of the Kalahari one last time.

ACCOMMODATION INFO

Where? 27 Olivier Street Rates: En suite double room R590 per night; R750 single supplement. Four-sleeper family room R2 000 for two people or R490 per person for three or more. All rates include breakfast. Contact: 053 781 0201; vanzylsrushotel.com